84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Jester...yeah a few months of no updates will cause that.....:D

69...I have a 12K lbs warn winch for the new front bumper....and have thought about a winch for the trailer. The receiver set-up is a good idea, will perhaps look into that.

I'll pull the starter and look at the gear. The guy sold me the tractor stating the starter was toast. Just bad connections and a new battery, and a carb rebuild was all it needed.

Yeah Maggie is a real sweet heart, so laid back and easy going. She loves to wander around in the bush, but never strays very far from the house. I have her out with me whenever I'm outside working, and she's starting to love rides in the truck.
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the HF 12k is built tough ..their hitch receiver mount will bend and buckle around 8-9k of off angle....i had the winch on one soooo twisted up i was worried about the wich but couldnt stop...it kept going strong....a full day of non stop winching out of a ravine and it never over heated....even dragging that 71 newport wagon with locked wheels...a 60s dodge truck out sideways...mind you we were full length winching PLUS 3 chunks of 30ft chain...worked that wich EXPECTING to kill it...hell it loaded my ramp truck onto that tilt bed 22ft without breaking a sweat....

you keep a HF on a receiver hitch and just mount something on a wall to store it.....ANY vehicle needs it or may need it and you can instantly toss it in a rig n go..when you get there slip it into the hitch and start winching...just carry a battery along with ya and then its 100% portable.....i recently grabbed a small to big hitch adapter so i can rig it to anything....no more pushing or comealongs for me!!!...just gimmy a receiver point!....what i want now is a "pass thru" so i can mount the winch on the truck for winching onto dolleys or those rigs that need the space the winch would ocupie on the trialer

20% off coupon makes that 12k around 3-400..the hitch plate is 50$...and so long as your not grabbing way off angle the hitch plate will survive just fine..best money i ever spent....and now that your in the deep snow...you might want to consider it
 
BFG's always break belts and come apart like that. They also take a ton of weight to balance. I find it hard to believe people insist on paying top dollar for 30 to 40 year old tire technology. You can't change their mind either. Then when they come back bitching about broken belts, they continue to argue about how awesome BFG truck tires are.
 
I've had two sets of BFG All Terrains, no broken belts, 60-70k out of the first set, and they did great in the snow and off road for a streetish tire. I'd buy another set. What would you recommend?

Cows, I dig the spread, glad you're back.
 
I have a Horror Fraught 3,500lb winch mounted to a receiver, and the massive traier hitch from my '72 Charger mounted to the garage floor upside-down. I made it totally self-contained by building a custom bracket for a 100A circuit breaker, 600A quick disconnect, the switch and the relay. It's a very small package, and with a snatch block it still pulls pretty quickly. For the other side of the disconnect, I used 25' 2-gauge jumper cables so it can be used in a truck trailer hitch off the truck's battery. The other side of those cables have the another disconnect, so I still have a set of useful 25' jumper cables. :dance: I have one more disconnect which I'm going to equip with short cables with battery terminals, so I can put some kind of battery mount on the Bitch Hitch. The hitch gets mounted to the floor with female-thread concrete anchors and 1/2" Grade 8 bolts. When I'm not using it, I can unbolt it, thread some countersunk-head bolts in to keep crap out of the anchors (and not create a trip hazard), and stash the hitch.

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The Hazard Freight winches are actually SmittyBilts, made on the same assembly line, with cheaper controls.
 
that would explain why they seem to be bulletproof...outside of the terminals being crap in a few places...that i soildered on copper i cant be any happier
 
That is interesting info on the BFG's Stretch...I did pretty good I think...6 years and probably close to 80K km's. And a lot of that was pulling heavy too. ;)

Doc that is a cool idea mounting the old hitch on the floor and then having a winch connect.....I might have to do that as well. And the quick connects on the lines is a great idea as well.....makes everything serviceable and useful in multiple set-ups.
 
Serviced my little Case Uni-loader today.....Oil change and fuel filters. Having a hard time finding a reasonably priced Hyd system filter up here......everyone wants 70-115 bucks for one! :(

Then did the crewcab...oil change and air cleaner. Air cleaner had been on there about 35K km's and over 18 months.....figured it was time. ;) Also ditched the clutch fan and put on my electrics for the winter.

Between the two the ate a full 19L pail of Rotella....and an extra liter too boot! Those cummins engines are greedy....:D
 
Here's a better shot of the winch setup, along with the text I wrote for it after the project generated some interest on Facebook:

I used an inexpensive 3,500lb ATV winch that I mounted to a piece of 2"x2" stock for a drawbar.
I built a metal shield/component mount and attached the "ATV handlebar" in/out switch, a 350-amp battery quick disconnect, a 100A resettable circuit breaker, and a box for the hand-held remote's plug.
The positive side of the disconnect goes through the 100A breaker, and from there to the relay/control box; the negative side is wired directly to the box. The relay box sits on its own fabricated skid plate mounted to the bottom of the drawbar. The rest of the wiring was straight out of the instruction manual, except I shortened all the control wiring significantly.
To power it, I bought a set of 25' 2-gauge jumper cables, which I cut 1' from one pair of clamps and installed a disconnect. The 24' cables are long enough to reach the battery on nearly anything whose hitch might be carrying the winch, but both sections of jumper cable received their own disconnect--which leaves them 100% usable as actual jumper cables when connected together.
The metal shield is internally gusseted and fabricated from an old PC case, and the "remote plug-in box" is a gutted and repurposed Chrysler starter relay with a custom mounting plate crimped in place of the factory relay board... because recycling.

Winch.jpg
 
My thought behind building it was this: Rather than make the winch a permanent garage unit, solely for pulling disabled vehicles in and out, it would be handy to keep in the Dakota for those yarding adventures that might require pulling a car from between two others or out of a gnarl of bramble bushes, etc. Hell, it might come in handy on the side of the road--whatever the case may be. I use the short cables to power it off a marine battery in the garage, the long cables will reach to the underhood area of nearly anything, and I've still got a nice pair of HD jumper cables. It's 100% self-contained, so it can be used on anything with a receiver hitch. 7,000lb of line draw using the snatch block should be more than enough for anything I'll encounter.
 
id like to get a look at your switch/relay box

my 12k i added a toggle to its relay box for the sheer fact that "if" the hand control acted up or was forgotten or whatever id have an alternate way of working said winch everything else you did for the wireing has been on my todo list for YEARS...since right now i just grab a battery from anything and go..there is a bonus to the HF reciever winch mount..grab handles!....oh and the snatchblocks they have are SWEEEET

something to consider doc..add yourself a snatch point at the very front of the garage..thus you can use the winch to pull ANYTHING forward in the shop...heck hook to the rear of a car and it will pull it out for you....i have a spot in the middle of my driveway i use for exactly that ..its just a hole for the fence to drop its lock bar into but boy does it work for dragging stuf off the trailer with the winch still mounted in front of the car on the trailer
 
Already have two female anchors set in the concrete near the door for cast eyerings. I can hook to either one, or run a chain between them and connect the snatch block to that, allowing me to winch cars out of the garage too. When the eyerings are out, the socket-head screws go in to keep crap out of the anchors. I tried to think of everything; haven't come up with anything I missed thus far. It works like a champ; I have a video of the Challenger going out, then coming back in, but I've no way to post it.
 
ill give you the 1 item you might have missed...

so when the tow driver showed up for the wagon he pulls out an orange extension cord...to my supprise he had actualy added connectors to it for the winch for the sole reason that he could go the full length of the trailer get in the car and control the winch while steering and working the brakes...being an orange extension cord means 1 cheep 2 tougher than the OE cable 3 availible anywhere...he had 50 feet of cable

the HF "wireless" is hit n miss some work up to 20 feet out most work under 5feet
 
I won't be trailering anything alone, so no... I didn't think of that. My Dakota wouldn't be happy with a car hauler on it, and besides, I have S.H.A.T. under contract. :D
 
Does that turn you into "S.H.A.T.W.O.W!" then? Stretch Has A Trailer With Operating Winch? You following me camera guy?
 
shamwow!

actualy the extension cord setup means you could re-adjust in your own driveway/garage without assistance tho...thats really what i want to do mine for anyway...no plan for solo loading any more on my end either
 
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