84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Once all that was done it was time to insulate the roof. I did a lot of research and came up with a product called mighty mat. It has an aluminum coating on one side...and a glass matting? type layer on the other. It does not hold moisture, or mold. And is about a 1/4" to 3/8" thick.



Going into the roof.





I then installed a second layer...fuzzy side down. Then installed the removable panels.



All done for now. It's nice and quiet now when you bang on the roof...inside and out!! I want to get upholstered panels to cover all the screws...but that can come later.
 
Alright I'm done for tonight. Will update again soon...if I find some more time. ;) I'm working like crazy trying to get the truck on the road...I'm getting darn close.
 
thrashingcows said:
The hinge is just flipped over to use on the other side of the truck.
Click to expand...

as i recall the uppers are the same side to side too...and uf you dimple the inner door skin a lil you can actualy make the upper pins removeable without unbolting the hinge..great for RC's so you can pop the doors in a few seconds
 
I decided to try and clean up my cargo light. As many of you know they tend to yellow with age. But I got mine darn near new looking with a bit of elbow grease.

First was to use an SOS pad to try and get most of the yellowing gone. This is what it looked like after the SOS pads.



Then I polished the lens with some mothers mag wheel polish....



Next was the Meguiars plastic cleaner....



Then the Mequiars plastic polish.....



And now your done. Here is the redone lens next to a spare.



And then I cut out a new gasket from some foam rubber neoprene.

 
I did a bunch of research, and it appears that my Isspro Tach will work with the factory wiring under the dash. The only problem was with the light housing. With the tach in the column mounted housing it would only go in 75% of the way...the big light housing on the back of the tach was hitting.



I first thought I would have to buy a new tach. But after some more on-line searching I found a solution to my problem...remove the light housing!



Now I had to figure out some new lighting. I went with a couple bullet LED's.



I cut a piece of rubber, and then made some slits in the back and pushed the LED's through.



Then I glued the rubber in place. Not super bright....but works good enough for me.

 
I installed the firewall insulation from the donor 93. It was originally glued to the firewall. Took me a long time to carefully get it out when I tore the 93 down. But I was able to get it installed, and secured in place with no glue this time.



Once that was done I installed new shaft bushings on the clutch and brake pedals.



Then it was heater/AC box, power window and door lock wiring, and the vents.



Now it was time to wrestle that dash back into place.



Went in relatively easy. Only thing I did was to add some slightly larger washers under all the 5/16" head screws. So that it would grab the holes in the dash without breaking them....a very common problem.

 
And I was going to use the original clutch rod boot...which I did manage to find in my parts stash....but decided to another route.



You can see in the pic that I left the delete plate in place, but drilled a hole in it and put in a wiring grommet.



I also installed longer screws....long enough to poke through the firewall insulation. Then I found a couple small washers, and some old pal nuts, and installed those to help hold things in place.



Now when I feed the wiring through it will tuck up and behind the firewall insulation and then to where I want it to run.
 
Went to install the rad support, but discovered that two of the bolts that I used to replace the rivets were going to be too high and hit the underside of the rad support.



So I went down to a local industrial supply shop and we were able to find a couple 1/2", fine thread, button head bolts, in Grade 8 too boot!! Worked perfect!!





Then installed the inner fenders. Starting to look more and more like a complete truck.

 
Installed the front fender one day.





Then a few days later got the hood and lower grille support panel in.



 
Had to modify the lower grille panel a bit to clear the PS IC.







Hope the grille will clear the IC with no modification.
 
I then had to spend a couple hours carefully modifying the hood catch. I had to cut out about 3/4" I guess. But through it all I had to carefully alter things to clear.





I also filed down the tabs at the back. This allowed the hook to roll inwards a bit more towards the rad support, and give it a little extra help in clearing.



I would be more specific on what I did...but this all depends on how you go about installing your PS IC. Some people have not had to alter the hood catch, many do have to alter theirs.
 
It's late...I'm done updating for tonight. Maybe one more evening i will be caught up. That is if I don't get a bunch more stuff done in the mean time....;)
 
PS IC? :D

You really went about the door lock cylinder the hard way. A new/replacement cylinder can be coded in a matter of minutes without undoing the bezel crimp.

Once again, fine progress! Really starting to look like a truck again!
 
Dr.Jass said:
PS IC? :D

You really went about the door lock cylinder the hard way. A new/replacement cylinder can be coded in a matter of minutes without undoing the bezel crimp.

Once again, fine progress! Really starting to look like a truck again!
Click to expand...

PS IC = Power Stroke InterCooler....;)

How can they code it with the way the bezel holds everything together. I spent a long time trying to figure out a way to swap the keys/pins without prying off the cover. I could not figure out, or see any way to do it.

Thanks...Yeah it's starting to look like a truck again.
 
funny how fast they come back together isnt it..looks pretty good..but those "sharp" edges on that lowwer panel id be smoothing and rounding since the air force of going down the road has a habit of pushing it ina bit not to mention road vibes n such...hate to see it wear a hole in

i coulda swore the pins on those simply come out the top ..but its been a while since i worked on the flat slide ones ..course you coulda swappe it to a earlier pin type(which are FAR easier to repair and rekey) and no one woulda been the wiser
 
69.5CUDA said:
funny how fast they come back together isnt it..looks pretty good..but those "sharp" edges on that lowwer panel id be smoothing and rounding since the air force of going down the road has a habit of pushing it ina bit not to mention road vibes n such...hate to see it wear a hole in

i coulda swore the pins on those simply come out the top ..but its been a while since i worked on the flat slide ones ..course you coulda swappe it to a earlier pin type(which are FAR easier to repair and rekey) and no one woulda been the wiser
Click to expand...

Those edges on the panel are going to be behind the grille. But I will push on it and see if I might have any issue. And easy enough to pop the grill off in a couple hundred miles and double check to make sure nothing it rubbing. ;)

I tried every combination I could think of to get those keys out of the tumbler. Once I got the tumbler out you can clearly see that there is no way for them to be removed. They are wider then the opening in the top, and bottom, of the tumbler.
 
OK time to start catching up on the updates. Will try and get caught up in the next day or two.

OK after I got the roof panels in I needed wanted to install some additional dome lights. Since the dash map light, and the rear dome light above the rear window would not be bright enough. I already had a hole in the passenger side interior A-pillar from a CB radio antenna. So I drilled another corresponding hole on the drivers side.

I then searched and searched on-line looking for the "right" unit to use as additional dome light. I ended up buying some front marker lights for a 53 Chevy...but they were way to big. Then I was digging through some of my full size Chrysler parts and came across a set of courtesy lights from a 66/67 Chrysler.



These were the ones I was looking for. Unfortunately the lenses were yellowing and cracked. But after some digging I found new reproduction lenses!!

Then I bought some small 1" x 1.25" Super bright LED panels to go inside. They are for dome light retrofit, so they come with 3 additional connections.



I then had to figure out hoe I was going to mount them. I ended up marking, and cutting out some gaskets from my neoprene rubber material.





 
Then I had to figure out how I was going to mount the LED panels within the light housings. I ended up making a couple sheet metal plates that would go between the gasket, and the lens. Then I could mount the LED panels and run the wiring back into the hole.





And installed.





Man is it bright in the cab now at night. Almost like day time when you pop the door open!
 
Sorry I didn't always take a lot of pics while I was working. But did snap a few here and there.

I went to install the steering column. I needed a new column gasket. I made my own out of the neoprene foam gasket material. I cut out two gaskets...mirror images of each other and then installed. Worked great!

 
Since I'm running the 2nd Gen rims I needed to modify a couple caps to go over the front 4wd hubs. I didn't want to cut up a dodge ram logo head cap, so I bought a pair of generic aftermarket units.

I heated up an old hacksaw blade with a torch, and slowly melted my way around the 5" hole I marked out.



Then I used a flapper disc on my air rotary tool to clean up the edges, and open the hole up a bit more.





They are a little tough to get off the front rims...but look good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top