84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches
- Thread starter thrashingcows
- Start date
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Thanks guys. This truck is a keeper, so I'm slowly trying to bring it up to my some what high standards.
Have water issues right now...that is lots getting into the truck. Had to pull the carpets so I can shammey up the water off the floor before I go out. The front window seal leaks like a sieve, and also the back window and vent windows leak as well. Usually close to 4 cups of water on my floor after a night of rain.
Once I get those sorted out, and the water stopped, I'll put new black carpets in.
Have water issues right now...that is lots getting into the truck. Had to pull the carpets so I can shammey up the water off the floor before I go out. The front window seal leaks like a sieve, and also the back window and vent windows leak as well. Usually close to 4 cups of water on my floor after a night of rain.
Once I get those sorted out, and the water stopped, I'll put new black carpets in.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
if you want a trick ive got a couple for ya...first off go up the firewall behind the dash you may find that the seam into the cowel is actualy whats leaking and not the windshield....sounds funny but it wouldnt be the last truck id seen with piss pour seams that let the cowl catch the water and half of it drains into the cab even tho the drains are clean...if you havnt cleened the drains id check em...also if it has the kick panel vents you might get water thru they if the cowels plugged.....my rust free RC body i found was leaking at the cowel BAD i mean crazy bad..so when i did the rustproof and bedliner inside and out...i seam sealed the cowl with jbweld and baked it into the seams
as for the doors i didnt see your seals but...chevy truck/van door seals do NOT require being glued on..there a lil thicker so they seal a TON better than even brand new stock ones if you can even still get them..anything from the 67-mid 90s chev will do..the nice thing is there a nicer looking seal due to the stiff rubber coated steel backbone that clamps it onto the lip and last i checked...still re-poped
as for the doors i didnt see your seals but...chevy truck/van door seals do NOT require being glued on..there a lil thicker so they seal a TON better than even brand new stock ones if you can even still get them..anything from the 67-mid 90s chev will do..the nice thing is there a nicer looking seal due to the stiff rubber coated steel backbone that clamps it onto the lip and last i checked...still re-poped
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Just placed my order at Xtreme diesel performance for a brand spanking new Fluid damper...they had a 10% off sale going on, as well as one of the best prices I could find...so out the door $420!! Can't wait!!
I will definitely give an update of what I find...and feel.
I will definitely give an update of what I find...and feel.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I just recently picked up a used HX35 turbo. This is a nice step up over the original H1C turbo I have on there now. Will be dismantling it for a rebuild and then it will wait until I have the intercooler ready to go before it gets installed.
Some pics...
Some pics...
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
NICE!!!
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well after a couple weeks of the exhaust side of the turbo fighting me tooth and nail...it did not want to separate!! I heated, then soaked in PB Blaster , then more heat, then 50/50 ATF&Acetone mix, then more heat and more beating with hammers...on and on it went. Well it finally let go the other day.
So now I can dis-assemble it and find out what rebuild kit I need to order.
So now I can dis-assemble it and find out what rebuild kit I need to order.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well I got my New Sanden A/C compressor couple weeks ago, and finally got to cleaning up the used engine bracket.
Here they are waiting for install....
Now one question on the engine bracket, do I need a gasket for the area around the lower coolant connection...on the back of the bracket?
Here they are waiting for install....
Now one question on the engine bracket, do I need a gasket for the area around the lower coolant connection...on the back of the bracket?
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
...my new Fluidamper!!! What a beautiful piece!!!
It's a fair amount bigger then the stock balancer..8 1/4" VS 9 3/4"...but should fit fine. And a couple guys mentioned the need for a 1/8 spacer behind the clutch fan threads to clear the fan blades, well I measured the new damper and it measures out at 2 3/4" and I have 3 1/8" from the back of the stock damper to the fan blades. Guess the Non-IC fan hub sits out a little farther then the IC ones. Might also be the fact I'm running a 2nd Gen fan as well?
Just waiting on the rare earth magnets to arrive so I can attach them to the new fluidamper so I can keep my Isspro tach working.
It's a fair amount bigger then the stock balancer..8 1/4" VS 9 3/4"...but should fit fine. And a couple guys mentioned the need for a 1/8 spacer behind the clutch fan threads to clear the fan blades, well I measured the new damper and it measures out at 2 3/4" and I have 3 1/8" from the back of the stock damper to the fan blades. Guess the Non-IC fan hub sits out a little farther then the IC ones. Might also be the fact I'm running a 2nd Gen fan as well?
Just waiting on the rare earth magnets to arrive so I can attach them to the new fluidamper so I can keep my Isspro tach working.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
So I picked up a used lower bracket form a 96 12V motor. Cleaned it all up and then bought a rebuilt Sanden A/C compressor from these guys.....
http://www.acpartshouse.com/
Here is the bracket and new compressor...
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Started by draining the fluid from the rad...Those drain valve location sucks so I use an old rad hose to catch the coolant and re-direct it into the pail. Works like a hot ****!!
Then removed the belt and the Alternator, then the belt tensioner. Here's what the old set-up looked like.
Move the lower rad hose and unbolt he old C171 compressor. There are 4 bolts on the bottom and one on the top. Then wiggle and jiggle the old compressor out. Then remove the old water/ A/C bracket. There are three 13mm bolts around the water outlet, 2 short and one long, and three 18mm bolts down low behind the old compressor location.
Here's the old bracket beside the new one.
Think it weighs 4 lbs less....
Then removed the belt and the Alternator, then the belt tensioner. Here's what the old set-up looked like.
Move the lower rad hose and unbolt he old C171 compressor. There are 4 bolts on the bottom and one on the top. Then wiggle and jiggle the old compressor out. Then remove the old water/ A/C bracket. There are three 13mm bolts around the water outlet, 2 short and one long, and three 18mm bolts down low behind the old compressor location.
Here's the old bracket beside the new one.
Think it weighs 4 lbs less....
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Then install the new bracket. I asked a bit ago about a gasket or O-ring for the lower water outlet on the block but nobody seemed to know for sure. Well it turns out to be a big O-ring. I didn't have one so I put on a little RTV and bolted things back on.
The only thing I found was that one of the 3 bolts that go around the water outlet is too long. The old bracket had a 3/8 raised location for one of the bolts and the new bracket does not. So I had to rummage through my tins of misc bolts to find one that would work.
I didn't have the factory bolts to hold the compressor to the bracket, so I bought four 4" x 5/16 grade 5 bolts, with washers. Don't think the threads are standard thread since they were a little tight going in. Make sire you put the bolts into the compressor before you try and install it, or else you won't be able to get them in.
Here's the new bracket and A/C compressor installed....
Not a bad job...other then the pouring rain today....
Got everything back together and fired it up....no problems with belts length or anything.
So for all you Non-IC guys with bad compressors, here's your fix. Though you will now need to get new lower hoses made up, but since I'm doing the complete retrofit I will be making all my own anyways.
The only thing I found was that one of the 3 bolts that go around the water outlet is too long. The old bracket had a 3/8 raised location for one of the bolts and the new bracket does not. So I had to rummage through my tins of misc bolts to find one that would work.
I didn't have the factory bolts to hold the compressor to the bracket, so I bought four 4" x 5/16 grade 5 bolts, with washers. Don't think the threads are standard thread since they were a little tight going in. Make sire you put the bolts into the compressor before you try and install it, or else you won't be able to get them in.
Here's the new bracket and A/C compressor installed....
Not a bad job...other then the pouring rain today....
So for all you Non-IC guys with bad compressors, here's your fix. Though you will now need to get new lower hoses made up, but since I'm doing the complete retrofit I will be making all my own anyways.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well the weather was crappy today...another fine day on the wet coast...
So instead of yard work I decided to install my new Fluid damper. Took about an hour from start to finish. Haven't driven it yet but seems smoother at idle for sure.
I've had the damper for a couple weeks now and before I could install it I had to get some magnets for my Isspro magnetic tach set-up. I decided to use the cut outs on the new damper for the location of the magnets. I then ordered some rare earth magnets off e-bay. I double checked the polarity of the magnets that are on my original damper, so they would be the same.
Here a pic of the damper with the new magnets....
So instead of yard work I decided to install my new Fluid damper. Took about an hour from start to finish. Haven't driven it yet but seems smoother at idle for sure.
I've had the damper for a couple weeks now and before I could install it I had to get some magnets for my Isspro magnetic tach set-up. I decided to use the cut outs on the new damper for the location of the magnets. I then ordered some rare earth magnets off e-bay. I double checked the polarity of the magnets that are on my original damper, so they would be the same.
Here a pic of the damper with the new magnets....
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Here's the before pics....
And the size difference between the original and new damper....
And the size difference between the original and new damper....
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I know a couple guys said they had to add a 1/8th spacer behind the fan to clear the new, bigger damper. Well I don't know why but I have about 1/4" clearance with no other mods.
I have a 89 non-IC motor with stock fan hub. I then have a new clutch and a 2nd gen fan. As you can see in the pics I have lots of room.
Here it is all done....
I have a 89 non-IC motor with stock fan hub. I then have a new clutch and a 2nd gen fan. As you can see in the pics I have lots of room.
Here it is all done....
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
And then I had to figure out how I was going to re-mount the magnetic pick-up for the tach. I keep a bucket of misc small metal pieces and random brackets and stuff I pick up and save for future projects and what have you. Anyway digging through my bucket I found an old bracket from a sink I replaced. It worked perfect for mounting the bracket. Had tons of adjustment and everything works perfect.
J.C. Corbett
or something.....
I'd love to drive yours and my 93 on the same day to compare the difference between the Getrag and NV4500. I've never owned an NV4500 (had 3 NV5600s), but hear the splits are great, and shift effortlessly. Keep the good news coming!
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Well with 3.54's in my Dana, the split in gears ratios are good from 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd...but the 3rd to 4th suck...way to large a gear ratio split. I have to rev the truck up to 2200+ RPM to make the shift even remotely smooth with no lugging. 4th to 5th is fine as well. I've considered a Gearvendors remote unit for the 3-4 shift, a 1/2 gear would be perfect. But can't justify the cost for a little betterment in one shift.