'75 W300 repair/mod project - Ol' Blue

How close to correct (in your estimation) was the color of the stuff from the dealer?
 
Note to self: Add to "to-do" list.
*fix broken exhaust stud(s).

Just one is missing at the moment, but I haven't tried to pull the manifolds off yet. From looking at the condition of the exhaust nuts, bolts and studs that are still on there, I'll most likely have a few more snap off during removal. The one at the front of the driver side manifold is the one missing right now.

Pfttt, pfttt, pfttt. :rolleyes:



BTW: My neighbor who races at the local 1/8th mile strip recommended a shop to resurface (grind) my flywheel. $35 and same day turnaround if I drop it off early, or I can hang around and wait for it while talking shop with the guys. I'll probably do the latter. :bravo:
 
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your a lucky sumbitch to have one....im in the boat of hunting for a flywheel for my swap..318/435 to 440/435, course im also swaping in the msd, MASSIVE headman/hooker, rad, thats all with the engine, disc brake front ibeam, heavier duty springs etc etc etc all from a 76 MH(all dated 1974) onto my mix n matched 1970 ramp truck...while i want that 440 i dont want its mpg lol nor do i want it RED(as much as i like my 360s red), course i will use the gold mildon pan, wiend manifold and some other goodies ive got laying around
 
The intake manifold on this 440 is a Weiand aluminum dual plane. :cool:

If it didn't have one already, it'd be on the short list of parts I'd want to put on the engine sooner rather than later. The carb (holley 750) is another part that would have made the list, but it's already on there as well. The only thing it doesn't have on it right now that I'd want is a set of shorty headers. Regular length headers would be fine as well, but I haven't had any luck finding a set that will work on a big block 4x4 Dodge.
 
unsure about big vs small block but i know full length van and 2wd truck "fit" on my ramcharger, the only issue i ran into was i needed a slight up bend (1inch) to clear the t-case xmember ....i would assume the same holds true on a bigblock...but have no way to verify for ya...to be honest tho ive never had a genuine set of 4x4 headers to comapre to
 
If you're going with headers, or not.. Get a starter from a 2000 Durango. It's tiny, and cranks hard. You'll especially thank me if you put a set of headers on.
 
I'll keep an eye out for a 440 flywheel for you. It's a 6 bolt right?

What brands and models of big block headers have you tried so far?
BTW, Neither the fuel gauge or the odometer work properly, so I have no idea what I'm currently getting for GPM.[smilie=f:
 
I plan on getting the starter and alternator from a late model engine for the increased output and reduced weight. I had gotten them for the R/T/A as well, but never got to install them. Last time I checked, they usually can be found cheaper than the equivalent aftermarket high performance type parts as well.
 
on the fuel...its actualy simple to test and more often than not its the sender or the senders ground....pull the dash or if you have access to the fuel tank just ground out the wire coming to the tank...if at dash supply powwer to one side and ground the other...the needle should swing(polarity is unimportant here but if you want to see it swing the other way then switch it)....if grounding the sender wire at the tank makes the gauge work then the sender is to blame which is useualy the case
 
The fuel gauge should be an easy fix. The wire just broke off at the sending unit on the top of the tank. It's just been too low on the priority list for me to take the time to fix it yet. The amp gauge is still there but warped and melty looking. The oil gauge is missing from the dash altogether.

I'd like to get another fuel gauge to put where the deep fried amp gauge currently sits. Then I can wire one gauge to each saddle tank and not have to rig up a switch to monitor the left and right tanks separately. For the oil gauge, I just need to get a factory one to stick in there.

The PO stuck an aftermarket amp gauge in a hole drilled in the left side of the dash. He also mounted an aftermarket oil gauge on the bottom edge of the dash between the ash tray and the glove box.

OK, now I've got more good news and bad news.

Good news first. The clutch kit and rear main oil seal arrived in the mail today.

Now for the bad news. Guess what the TO bearing body is made of... [smilie=f:Looks like I'll have to add a [I]metal[/I] TO bearing to the shopping list above. :doubt:
 
gomopar440 said:
How close to correct (in your estimation) was the color of the stuff from the dealer?
Click to expand...

I thought it was spot on!

gomopar440 said:
I plan on getting the starter and alternator from a late model engine for the increased output and reduced weight. I had gotten them for the R/T/A as well, but never got to install them. Last time I checked, they usually can be found cheaper than the equivalent aftermarket high performance type parts as well.
Click to expand...

I have been using junk yard high torque mini starters for many years with absolutely no issue. I just grab one from a V6 or V8 magnum motor, truck, van, jeep, and go....usually $25 for a used starter. No way am I paying $200 for the same basic starter with shiny paint and aluminum. ;)
 
The throwout bearing sold by Chrysler/Mopar Performance is less expensive than most of the aftermarket ones, and has a metal collar. Timken, National and SKF also all have metal collars. Apparently only the cheap Asian clutches come with the plastic collar as part of the kit. I've never seen/heard of one (sold on its own) on a parts-store shelf. Anyhow, I think the MP/Chrysler unit is just a reboxed Timken. I can check when I get home.

For as much work as it is to change a clutch in one of those trucks, I don't think I'd be price-shopping. Imagine how much fun it'll be to do again in a year when the disc hub's sprung or the plate springs are toast! :doh:
 
I may have figured out a possible reason for the tach not working. All three wires weren't hooked up to anything under the dash.:doh: I'll temporarily rig up a few jumpers under the hood to see if I can get it to work.

EDIT: updated the shopping list.
 
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Still don't know if the tach works as I haven't messed with it yet. I'll be testing that out tomorrow.

Today I went to town and picked up the last of the stuff on the list except for the exhaust studs and nuts. I'll wait to get those until after I get the exhaust manifolds off. That way I'll know if I need more than just the one that's broken now.
 
If you can swing it, Stage 8 fasteners make a kit that locks exhaust hardware down through the use of fancy bolts that accept a lobed washer and an E clip to retain it. It's excellent for headers. They also make hardware for the flange. It's been three years, and I haven't had any leaks after snugging everything up after a hundred miles or so in my truck. I did buy fancy reusable manifold gaskets as well. Absolutely worth the extra cash in time not spent chasing stupid header leaks. If you've got all studs and nuts without bolts, find copper nuts. They won't seize, or back off as easily as regular hardware. If they do back off, or your money is more dear to you than your time, you could always drill and safety wire everything to keep it in place. I've got a couple of cars like that, as well. Oh, copper anti-seize works pretty well, also.
 
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