73 Barracuda RustBucket

jreardanz

New member
Hey, I'm new to the forums. I just purchased a 73 Barracuda. I've wanted a Barracuda for over 20 years and I finally found one I could afford. Unfortunately when I started tearing it apart and getting down to the shell I've realized the rust is much worse than I thought. I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. It needs rear frame rails ,trunk pans, front and rear floor pans, and front inner fender wells. So really the whole frame needs reconstructed. I'm pretty damned determined to do it. Just wondering if anyone else has tackled this big of a project and where you started. Build a jig? What order should I weld up the pieces in? I've also considered maybe making a full frame for it. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.
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Buy a rotisserie & wire feed weld, (learn how to weld), get an AMD http://www.autometaldirect.com/ catalog, save up lots of money and come back here as often as you need info. There's more than one here that can give good advice from experience. :doh:
 
ill start with a few things ive learned..do NOT unbold any body panels or remove any glass...IF you have put them back and get the car stting straight and on a level floor

at this point you need to cross weld and brace EVERYTHING..door openings are critical..as is the side to side angles..idealy you want a 3d x in the center of the car and an x in the door openings..

next you get it up on stands where it can stay...long term..as in NO jacking..then and only then are you safe to remove EVERYTHING and start cutting

if it was me.....id likely do a chassis swap...newwer car, other brand(no not camaro/mustang) but im an ass like that...supra bits under it would be fun and a wicked 5spd to boot..and i think the right bolt pattern to fool others...i never said swap the engine to non mopar

it really sounds like your going to buying a TON of new panels..or you need to find a wrecker you can hack as much as humanly possible

i dont know where your located but you might consider looking out here on the west for good original steel....idealy if you can buy say...the rear rails with the pan attached..youd be VERY well ahead of yourself
 
First things first: Do NOT let anyone tell you this can't be fixed or that you're attempting the impossible. You definitely have a long road ahead of you, but I've seen worse. I live in the middle of rust country myself, and my best friend has a far-worse '68 Charger he's gathering the parts to restore. It was his first car, and we only just recently found it again, almost 25 years after he sold it. Hang in there.

Next, get a factory Body Service Manual. I suggest a paper original first, but the CD ones are very handy as well especially if you have a PC in the shop. All the "hard points" of the car are laid out in print; this should assist you in building a jig to which the car can be bolted. Wood will suffice if you make it stout enough with bracing, etc. Take measurements and make supports for places on the floor panels such as the seat mount points, etc. so that you can lay a panel in there and have it supported from beneath. The more supports from underneath, the better.

To expand on what 69.5CUDA said about removing parts: Don't cut out any panel or rusty area unless it is the one you are about to replace. I can't stress that enough. Don't go batshit with the air saw or cutoff wheels or you'll end up with a pile of scrap metal. EVERYTHING is a reference point to something else; for example don't cut out the trunk extensions until the new trunk is in place. Think in terms of logical order. Start at something solid and work out to your hard points, one replacement panel at a time.

You will make your own life a living hell if you're going to try and save a buck on shipping by buying components. Order a COMPLETE floorpan, nothing less. Order a COMPLETE trunk floor; don't fuck around trying to patch in four pieces. Get full quarters; they're a ton less work in the long run. The bigger the assembly you can find, the less work you'll do and the better the result will be. Truck freight is a bitch, but it will be soooooo worth it when you've got a complete floor, toeboard to rear seat, to install rather than a jigsaw puzzle with several seams you can potentially screw up. Make sure you will be there when the truck arrives. You must inspect the panels before you sign for them. If you don't, and it's banged and bent, you've got no recourse and a ton more work on your hands. The truck driver will be in a hurry; that's tough shit. Open the box, remove the panel and set it on the floor. Look closely, and if you find anything that you can't fix with nothing more than a sheetmetal Vise Grip, refuse the delivery.

Shop around for your panels. AMD is always a good choice but it's not always worth the extra expense. Panels that can be shipped UPS, I highly recommend Summit Racing or Year One (though their shipping is sometimes ludicrous), because those two companies will bend over backward to make you happy. Summit sent me two decklids, both damaged, then issued me a credit for both plus $100 when we determined UPS couldn't get it here unbent. I still have both. The next decklid I ordered from Year One. Bent again. They sent a call tag and picked up the old one, but the new one was already shipped. That one is the one that's going on my car. Joe eBay likely ain't gonna work that hard for your business. Get on Year One's e-mail list; they're constantly running sales anywhere from 20% to 30% off--I actually get about two per week. It will ease the pain of their shipping prices considerably.

Most importantly, work on the car every day you can. Even if you're only out there for 20 minutes, try to get a little further on the area you're working. The longer you stay away from the car, the easier it is to stay away from the car, and the easier it is to get frustrated and abandon your dream. Don't ever think you can't do it; I recently replaced the roof on my Challenger by myself (and I do mean by myself--no one even helped me place it on the car) despite the fact that I've never done any bodywork and am actually a pretty awful welder. I didn't tell myself I couldn't and I took my time to make sure everything was right about 5 times before the bonding and welding started. I had some excellent coaching from the board (thanks restoman!). The results were not only good, they were downright inspiring to me. Now I feel like there's nothing I can't tackle on the car.

With a car this bad, you can do whatever your heart desires and no one can knock you for it. Rather have a four-speed? Go ahead and convert it. Don't like the original color? Change it. Want diesel stacks poking through the rear-seat roof area? Well, you can do it but we'll most definitely ridicule the shit outta you on that one. :D Parts for E-bodies really aren't that bad unless you want a Rallye dash and don't have one. Those is pricey... reeeeeal pricey (went through that myself). Don't look at the bottom line all at once, though. Order what you need, as you need it. You aren't gonna finish the car in two weeks. Start a car account and put something in it every paycheck. Money for tools is never wasted.

Form a game plan and get after it. Start a thread in the Progress section and keep us posted. Oh, and let us know where you are... we're a helpful bunch, if a bit silly, and many here have worked on others' projects if they were close enough to do so. Because friends. :dance:
 
ill elaberate on docs make a game plan

know EXACTLY what you want NOW, BEFORE you go buying stuff......and then STICK TO IT!!!!..

did a rolled over 69 fastback fish for a preacher.....the front end was changed 3 times, brakes 4 times engine 3 times trans 4 times rear end 4 times ..and the list went on like that...the extra expense of changing mind like this added a couple years to the project and doubled the final price cause with every new swapped part..cleaned painted installed then mind change uninstall and do it again with new changed part


for jigging correctly you need to support 8 points at the very least..
front in front of the k member anywhere up to the bumpers
behind the k member preferably neer the t-bars
rear neer the front spring hangers
rear rear neer the rear spring hangers(or bumpers)


that was pulled from a chassis build book and a frame shop..its the only sure fire way to keep the car from sagging while your working

then doing that type of work i typicaly use HF 6 ton jack stands (they will allow you to get more working height safely and are more stable than the shortys)and then blocks of wood and plywood for shimming to perfection.i cant stress having a level surface enuf.... with this much material needing to swap
 
Thanks a lot for your help guys. I gotta say I was reluctant to post pics because I was afraid everyone would just tell me to junk it, but you guys are great. Dr.Jass, I do have body, chassis and fastener manuals. I've been doing a lot of reading and trying to plan carefully. I'm gonna have to brush back up on my welding skills as it's been several years. Other than being slightly discouraged by the amount of rust damge, it's been fun just wrenchin on it. It feels great to look down into that engine compartment and know exactly what everything is, something I haven't been able to do for quite a few years.
 
If you want to use a rotisserie (and I suggest you really shore up & brace the car well if you do), you can build one yourself with directions found here. That's a good way to brush up on your welding skills. :dance:

I will no longer get frustrated with any of my cars after seeing yours. My '61 Plymouth wagon (a.k.a. Puff) is pretty bad, but not quite to that level. It kind of puts things in perspective... but I wholeheartedly agree with your decision to fix it. Dreams die hard but you've gotta make 'em come true.

Geographically, where are you located? There have been several small get-togethers of board members. Stretch and I are both in the Upper Peninsula of MI (about 20 miles apart) and last weekend we were in southern WI for a swap meet/visit with 68R/T. Last winter we hit the Merrill Ice Drags with members beeper*71 and Barney, but they were cancelled due to wind.
 
Welcome to the club.
I went through the same kind of thing with my Charger.

I had to send it to a shop for the work though. I didn't have the room to go that deep into a project.

My story is a long one, but the ending is happy.

When restoman pipes in on this thread, listen to him. He's a wizard.
 
i however am out west..where things dont rot to the ground.....but..ive taken up "euro" stuff...mini/micro cars where ...well they rust and all you have is a shell..no frame rails, no floors..zip zilch nodda...its why i learned about bracing before dissasembly...after patchworking one together and being uber proud of myself..i found that i had tweaked and twisted enuf that panel alignment was impossible..thankfully the perfect chassis swap fell into my lap and gave me a new direction....most of my rust work these days is on italians from the 60's..and that metal was born thin and rust ready
 
I'm in eastern Iowa and the car came from Ohio, so right in the saltbelt. Cars die fast around here unless you store 'em for the winter.
 
Lots of good advice here...

I've spent the better part of 30 years doing this kind of work. Everything can be fixed, if you've got the determination and money.

My first bit of advice: align the doors, fenders and deck lid. Leave the strikers out of the doors and deck lid. You can remove the fenders later (they're really only needed to make sure the doors fit true). Leave the doors and deck lid on until you've got all the structural repair done. Trust me on this. They will be your points of reference for everything.

Post lots of pics and ask away. We're all pretty handy at figuring stuff out and getting it done.

... And if at any time you feel overwhelmed, put the tools down and go have a beer or three. It will all still be there when you get back to it. :)
 
if at any time you dont "feel it" walk away..for a hour a week or a month..sometimes "pushing" yourself can lead to burnout or shitty repairs
 
That's why it's so important to go out there and do something--anything--as often as possible. I'm in that mode too, but one of the things on which I was working all day will assist me in substantial forward leaps (or backward discoveries, that's a distinct possibility).
 

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