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My pulley removal tool is deeper and the bearing removal part is to flip the 2 internal parts that grab the pulley & bearing. It's an incomplete video, he never shows removing any internal parts or how to test & remove diodes. To test diodes you need a powered test light. the test light will...

I've thought about getting one of those Nutsert kits, but I don't do the fabricating that I used to.

The way to deal with the pealing clear is to sand the rest off with about 320 wet and re-clear it with eurathane. Sanding takes time & effort, but you'll appreciate the results.

I've fixed many of those with all different maladies. It takes a special tool to remove the pulley and the outer bearing. It's in my garage. :giggle:

If one of the heater hoses looks to be the highest point, loosen the hose and burp it there with the engine running.

Much btter than paying $$$ for a replacement.

A little work done is better than none

:D(y)

Trial & error are always good teachers

That would be my plan.

You either have to reshape the spring so it doesn't stick thru so far or cut off a part of the end.

Prybars, homebuilt or?, are your friends

It's all about hooking the rods in the correct slot.

Just rip it out with a pliers, shove the new socket in w/pigtail and Goop.

ingenuwity is the mother of invention. 👏

Rip it out and Goop in a new/replacement. $$$ saved

You can buy any sockets with pigtals at any auto supply, but you'll have to cut & splice the wires.

Drink your ovaltine and get the biggest rubber mallet

For the same reason that we volunteer to do our own work, "because we know how"

That grille looked easy enough to repair.