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Have done that in the past, and yes, it works. The smallest drill bit you have is allit needs.

"Vapor lock" is a whole different thing. Back in those days gas was formulated much different and carburators were vented, allowing vaporized fuel to escape. The car would absorb engine heat and "boil" the gas. Many times a simple fix was to wrap the line from pump-to-carb with aluminum foil...

It says "vented", so give it a shot. The part "protruding down" is probably the vent valve.

Work with the needles & springs first. You're thinking too far ahead. A cold engine wants a richer mixture and a warmed engine wants leaner mixture. Thinner needles richen the mixture and thicker lean it. Stronger springs richen it sooner and weaker keep it lean longer. And lastly, as the...

This just may be your key to the solution.

The correct name of those screws are "Idle air bleed screws". Most think that they control fuel flow at idle, but they do exactly the oppisite. If it still runs with them all the way in it's getting air bleed. If there are no obvious vacuum leaks the only other thing could be that the idle speed...

Easy solution, but not always easy to find a vented cap that fits. You may be better off putting a small inline filter on one of the capped off lines and let it breathe. The port you want for your vacuum advance is the one circled in red......

You should NOT be building vacuum in the gas tank. You gas tank has 3 fittings, correct? Fuel line, return line and a vent tube. Cars from that era usually have a vented gas cap also.

As for dying at idle, it's either starving for fuel or flooding. DO NOT drill throttle plates until you know for sure which it is. And idle passage fuel mixture is controlled by the idle jets. If it's starving richen the setting and compensate idle speed with the idle speed screw. Without an o2...

Plus I would say that your oil pressure is now within acceptable range. If you're idling 700-800 in gear with 10 psi of oil -- no sweat. remember the old rule of thumb, 10 psi for every 1,000 of rpm.

1) Melling is a good brand name. Rock Auto, -- could be, or maybe...? 2) Never heard one referred to as "high velocity". Either "high pressure" or "high volume". You want "high volume" 3) Rear main can be changed without pulling trans.

A new oil pump "could" help, or maybe not. Low oil pressure can be caused by many things, worn oil pump, restrictive filter, thin oil, worn bearings of which cam bearings seem the most overlooked. I would start with the cheapest & easiest solution first, which you are doing. New filter & heavier...

True dat. Corporate greed is the basis for many of the issues that face us "lower beings" whose sole purpose to them is to feed their greed. This greed is perpetrated by upper echelon of too many corporations that have grown to near monopoly.

It will be nice to have parts made in the USA instead of the garbage coming from China.

You worry too much about details stated for a newly built engine over 50 yrs ago. "The book says"-----when the engine was new, zero miles, etc., etc., ........ STP, Rislone, Slick 50, these products are on the market for a reason. Todays oils are not the same as they were 50 yrs ago. Prior...

There's always Andy Granatellis old trick, a can of good old STP. Many times back in the 60's & 70's that was the quick & simple cure for ticking lifter & flickering oil lights. Today's engines are machined with tolerances requiring oil of around 5w-20w. These older engines that have not been...

Any reading between 20 - 60 throughout RPM range at full temp is very acceptable. You worry too much about details. 😊 One belief is 10# per 1000 rpm is minimum. You're well above that, so I'd say that you have a very solid motor.

You'll appreciate knowing the true pressure after it's installed. I have pressure gauges in all of my cars. There's a reason they call them "idiot" lights.

That plug looks perfect. (y)

Don't be too concerned with the markings for the choke. They are mostly as a suggestion. Try to keep it somewhat on the lean side, but not to where it may cause a stumble or pop back thru the carb. You want it to respond quickly with zero hesitation