84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

I've also picked up a front seat from a 94-98 2nd Gen dodge ram. I really like having the armrest and dual sliding seats, for his and her comfort. :)

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I'll have to redo the floor mount brackets and tracks to get it to sit as low as possible, one of the draw backs to being 6'8"...;) But should be able to knock that out in a day, with a little grunt help from my neighbor.
 
Well I've been continuing my work on RAE. I installed the new power steering box last week. The old one was leaking from the input shaft, and main steering shaft seals.

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Much better not having the puddle under the truck every time I park.

But had to flush the system a whole bunch. I grabbed some PS fluid I had laying around and didn't bother to check it and just dumped it in. Well it wasn't until i turned the truck on and started cycling to get the air out I noticed a foul smell and lots of foam in the system. Turns out the fluid was contaminated with water, smelled horrible and was a murky orange color. So up to the store and buy some fresh fluid, then drain, cycle system, drain and repeat. Still a little bit left in the system but not bad.
 
Well I decided to change the fluid and install a filter kit from Geno's.

I got my Syntorq from, www.blumenthalmfg.com for 5 quarts it cost me $59, not a bad price!! Considering the local Chrysler dealer wants $30 a quart!!

So I removed both PTO covers and did the complete clean out, wiped the inside of the case, sides and bottom until it was as clean as I could get it. Then installed the filter kit on the pass. side and refilled with the new syntorq.

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I noticed it shifts a little smoother, and it doesn't grumble quite as much. But before I did this I noticed that it didn't grumble as much in the mornings when the fluid was cool, once it warmed up the grumbling became much worse. So hopefully it will help, but at a minimum I at least know have the peace of mind knowing the condition of the fluid in the tranny.

Another thing that I noticed when I pulled the PTO covers was that both the side covers had a fair amount of scratches and gouges on the inside. I think this tranny might have blown before. So who knows how old the tranny rebuild is but my input shaft cover seal is weeping a bit.

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Well got off work friday evening and went to my truck, fired right up, 1/2 crank as always, and I let it idle for a couple minutes but it seemed to have a stumble, like a miss fire?

Put the truck in gear, and started to drive off but again it was stumbling. Got to the exit and it stummbled hard and died. I tried to fire it up again and it fired briefely and died again almost immediately.

I pushed it back out of the way and popped the hood. The "New" lift pump I installed a few weeks back was leaking. I tried to prime the system but the pump wouldn't draw any fuel. I had the wife bring down the old one I removed, it leaked but would still prime. So installed the old lift pump and primed the system, then tried to fire it again, nothing. Cranked it a bit, still nothing. So had to get a hook to drag old RAE home.
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My injection pump has been leaking from all over the place, was going to order a reseal kit and reseal it.

I worked on it yesterday, and, Well it's running again....for now at least.

I decided to crack the injectors, don't think they had been loosened since it left the factory. I only had fuel at #1, #4, and #6, #2 was bone dry, and the others only had a trace of fuel in the injector head. Cranked it and started getting fuel squirting out at all the injectors, tightened them down and then fired it up.

It ran rough for the first minute or so, I brought the RPM's up, lots of smoke, white in color, then it slowly cleared up. Seems to be OK for now, but I think I will transfer the plates to my 87 ram gasser unit until I can get a piston pump, and rebuild the injection pump. Don't feel like any more tow bills....
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Since it's off the road for a couple weeks I've decided to fix a few more things as well. I adjusted my valves last night, and picked up some new valve cover gaskets, remember cummins have 6...:) Also going to install new upper control arm bushings and ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods as well. And try and finish up my A/C retrofit.
 
Update....

Well it's all back together now. Here's what was done to get around the differences in the gasser vs diesel center link and tie rod ends sizes.

I ordered all new tie rods, two diesel inner tie rods, and two gasser outer. Here is a pair of the new ones. You can see the difference!!

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So to get around having to find a set of diesel lower ball joint arms and such, I decided to have the big diesel tie rods machined down to fit the gasser adjustment sleeve, and therefore have the proper size end and tapper to fit the diesel center link.

I found a local guy who works out of his back yard. I brought him in one of the old used gasser inner tie rod and adjustment sleeve, and the two diesel units. He then milled down the shaft size and threaded them, Left hand thread of course. He said the hardest part was figuring out how to mount the tie rods in the milling machine since the odd shaped tie rod head was too big for his chucks. He ended up having to pin them on each side, center them, then mill them down, then thread them, then cut them to size.

Diesel and gasser tie rods.

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And them assembled in the sleeve.

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And now mounted in the truck.

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I have also redone my upper control arms, so after the VE pump is re-sealed, new piston pump installed, new fuel heater and lines, I will get the front end realigned.
 
silly question...but wouldnt it have been easier to have the hole in the spindle reemed out to the big D size?...i just like having "off the shelf" parts when it comes to wearables...but thats a hell of a fix there cow
 
69.5CUDA said:
silly question...but wouldnt it have been easier to have the hole in the spindle reemed out to the big D size?...i just like having "off the shelf" parts when it comes to wearables...but thats a hell of a fix there cow
Click to expand...

I too would like to have off the shelf parts, and this will happen, but this will get me going until I can find a set of steering knuckles from a diesel truck. Then I can redo the lower control arms, bushings, new springs, and install the diesel steering knuckles and then new diesel tie rods and sleeves.

I could have reamed out the steering knuckle, but that would have been trial and error and who knows how even I would have got the tapper? This way everything fits and functions properly, for now. ;)
 
The difference between the diesel and gasser parts should simply be the same as the difference between D250 and D350 parts. To my knowledge, all ¾-ton diesels used 1-ton front ends; there were no diesel-specific parts. The Cummins weighs nearly half a ton, so they used the higher GVWR front end on the oil burners. Parts shouldn't be too hard to source.
 
Well I've been having all kinds of fun. My "off the road for a couple weeks" is turning into a lot longer then that....:doubt:

My injection pump re-seal seemed to go OK, no problems really, but after I got it all back together the truck would not fire. I tried for 3-4 days and could not get more then a sputter out of it. The guys on my cuumins diesel board have been giving me all kinds of help and advice, but it just won't fire.

I have since pulled the injection pump out again, and I'm going to tear it down because I found a bunch of metal shavings in the bottom of the pump. Those shavings were not there before. So something is not right.
 
Well since I'm retrofitting my A/C system...all new, no factory parts under the hood other then the compressor...will do a update when complete.
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Anyway I needed to use the space where the radiator overflow tank is currently placed. Also I will be running the tubes for the IC one day through this area as well, and the BHAF too.
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So this is the factory set-up...

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And this is where I decided to put the new overflow tank, behind the battery.

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But before I could do any of this I had to figure out what kind of tank I was going to use. I spent a couple days in the wrecking yard and couldn't find anything that would work. SO one evening I was sitting thinking about things when it occurred to me that I already had the perfect unit, it was on my 68 Chrysler T/C wagon...but it is a washer fluid reservoir, not an over flow tank, but I can make it work.

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So onto E-bay I went and found a tank for a 65/66 C-body (Newport, New yorker, Monaco, Polara) This tank is slightly different then the one on my wagon, since the pump is not attached to the tank, it's a remote unit. So therefore the tank just has a small spigot, not the big hole to mount a washer fluid pump. Much better for my plans.

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I just used a vacuum plug and a small zip strap to secure it nice and tight.
 
Now came the positioning of the tank. Since it needs to mount on a flush surface I decide to cut a notch out of the inside of the fender. But first I had to relocate one of the horns just down the way.

I lined up the tank then marked off the area I needed to cut out. Used my handy dandy dremel and a few cut off blades and out it came. Dressed up the sharp edges with a fine flat file

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Then I used a pencil to mark where I needed to drill the mounting holes. Had to use a fat washer behind the mounting area since I didn't get my cut perfectly flush...not a biggie.

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Now came the fun part. Since this was a washer fluid unit it obviously doesn't have the overflow design built into it. I over came this with another wrecking yard run and an overflow cap from a late 90's Plymouth Sundance I think?

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Unfortunately the cap was too small to fit the new tank so I had to get creative. So I looked at the design and figured I could make it fit on top of the factory cap.

So first I needed to drill a big hole for the main line going into the tank, then I drilled a smaller hole just to the side for the over flow.

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I then secured the over flow cap, with it's original gasket as well, to the new cap with a pal/speed nut. I found this in my tin of speed/pal nuts for cars I parted over the years. But I'm sure you could find one at the parts store.

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Now I had to run the hoses. The one inside the tank was shaped perfect, just had to cut off about 3-4" and with the S-curve in the hose it dropped over perfectly to the deepest side of the tank. The outflow hose tucked up nicely to the side. The hardest part was trying to get the hose connected to the rad since the nipple off the rad points in the opposite direction.

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I managed to make an old vacuum fitting work, I needed a 180* unit and didn't have time to run up to the parts store and see if they had one or not. So once I got that sorted out I secured the main hose with a couple zip straps and an old wire holder. I think it turned out OK, and I still have lots of room for my big 1000 crank amp battery I have in there now.

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dang..if id have known you were going to move the over flow i could have given you some killer bottle year/make/models...mostly toyotas but fit into some ultra tight locations.....however that setup damn neer looks factory
 
69.5CUDA said:
dang..if id have known you were going to move the over flow i could have given you some killer bottle year/make/models...mostly toyotas but fit into some ultra tight locations.....however that setup damn neer looks factory
Click to expand...

I wanted to try and keep it all mopar, and looking as factory as possible. ;)
 
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