A12 - time to get busy
- Thread starter b-body-bob
- Start date
b-body-bob
Well-known member
There is another place that re-does them (https://abcmoparts.com/).
They're out of stock but last time they updated their website, a b-body pad was $399 and a core $100. They will recover a core you send them but no price is listed and I didn't call.
I've got to dye the lower dash pad, the glovebox and a couple of a-pillar moldings. The glovebox is a color change from brown to black; the rest are just recoating black over black. Once that's done, it's time to assemble and install.
They're out of stock but last time they updated their website, a b-body pad was $399 and a core $100. They will recover a core you send them but no price is listed and I didn't call.
I've got to dye the lower dash pad, the glovebox and a couple of a-pillar moldings. The glovebox is a color change from brown to black; the rest are just recoating black over black. Once that's done, it's time to assemble and install.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Had a happy day when I found this hanging around in the back of a cabinet, saving me from having to dye a brown part and deal with a rusty hinge, then there's the lower pad that would need dyed to match the color. With this glove box door, all I have to do is clean the pads thoroughly and I'm your uncle.
Moving forward ... I got most of the dashboard together. Debated a while about repair/using the radio delete or buying a new radio bezel (I have the original radio). Decided to go with the zero cost option.
Glove box not installed yet in case I need to get hands through there.
IIRC there is one, maybe two, repairs needed on the dash harness, then I can put that in. I already cleaned it. I clean everything, even things that aren't getting refinished otherwise, because the parts car had Texas in every nook and cranny.
Moving forward ... I got most of the dashboard together. Debated a while about repair/using the radio delete or buying a new radio bezel (I have the original radio). Decided to go with the zero cost option.
Glove box not installed yet in case I need to get hands through there.
IIRC there is one, maybe two, repairs needed on the dash harness, then I can put that in. I already cleaned it. I clean everything, even things that aren't getting refinished otherwise, because the parts car had Texas in every nook and cranny.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I think I used just dashes too,
Had to trim around the A/C vents to finagle those in, but the top & front were otherwise very nice.
Repro quarter skin on first car, side marker light was cut out wrong, drove back up to Conn. & the whole row of 6 or 7 were all cut the same way, took it to the shop & filed back the short side till the marker light fit, I could have done that at home & not driven 2 hours!
Doesn't it feel good that things are finally going back together!
Had to trim around the A/C vents to finagle those in, but the top & front were otherwise very nice.
Repro quarter skin on first car, side marker light was cut out wrong, drove back up to Conn. & the whole row of 6 or 7 were all cut the same way, took it to the shop & filed back the short side till the marker light fit, I could have done that at home & not driven 2 hours!
Doesn't it feel good that things are finally going back together!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
No it won't feel good until all the parts I bought are installed LOL.
Electrical in will be a good milestone though. Getting dangerously close to where I can stick an engine and trans in it and drive it around.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I still have a few wires to figure out so I know where they plug in before I install the dash and have to figure it out on my back under the dash.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I'm mostly piddling around not getting much done but I am debating if I should restore the VIN tag or just go with it as is.
It's not bad so I'm thinking the chance of messing it up outweighs how it looks right now.
I also bolted my road runner horn to the rad support
. You get your jollies where you can I guess.
VIN rivets courtesy of Bill Overcash, may you rest in peace my man.
It's not bad so I'm thinking the chance of messing it up outweighs how it looks right now.
I also bolted my road runner horn to the rad support
. You get your jollies where you can I guess.VIN rivets courtesy of Bill Overcash, may you rest in peace my man.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Those rivets are a sore spot with me, they wanted a fortune for those "special" rivets, I had a box of 1000 reg rivets from work I paid like 6 bucks for , I got the dash pad guy to through them in with the job for 20 bucks Yep just for 2.
They both popped on installation & held nothing down, I ended up gluing the pad & the crappy rivets down from the bottom!
They both popped on installation & held nothing down, I ended up gluing the pad & the crappy rivets down from the bottom!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
These rivet to the dash frame not the pad so there should be no problem with them pulling out.
I have riveted a VIN back on a dash before, and if it isn't bolted in, it smacks pretty hard when the pin pulls out. Going to wait until the frame is bolted in to do it.
I have riveted a VIN back on a dash before, and if it isn't bolted in, it smacks pretty hard when the pin pulls out. Going to wait until the frame is bolted in to do it.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Done.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Hadn't plugged the dash into the firewall yet ...
For some reason I can't get a bulb to go in the parking lights.
I checked them with a socket on an extension to push the socket in, and it seems like there's one stop, then there's another, and I can't get past the first stop with a bulb on either side. Yes I know they're not made that way, but that's what I see here. Push it in a little and it'll stop, wiggle it around and it will pop in further. But not with a bulb.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I posted about this on FBBO and the only real recommendation was to file down the contacts on the bottom of the bulb. I thought that was going to be the answer, but no. I eventually filed all the contacts off one bulb and it still wouldn't go in.
There's something going on with the thing, but I can't push the socket in and see the slots for the bulb at the same time to tell if there's something wrong there.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The socket is swaged or crimped (or something) to the housing. I don't think there is any way to change it.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Here's photos of mine that might show what I mean
No doubt I can get that socket out of there, but will I destroy it in the process? Is there enough there to clip in a parts-store socket from the "Help!" aisle?
Repops cost $175. That's definitely a vote against destroying it while trying to fix it. But OTOH it might as well be destroyed if I can't get a bulb in it.
No doubt I can get that socket out of there, but will I destroy it in the process? Is there enough there to clip in a parts-store socket from the "Help!" aisle?
Repops cost $175. That's definitely a vote against destroying it while trying to fix it. But OTOH it might as well be destroyed if I can't get a bulb in it.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I cleaned up the rear section wiring and laid it in place. If I didn't know better I'd say it shrunk. I guess it's caused by the extra tub width it's got to go around.
The only wiring that's left is the engine harness, and that has to wait because I have to match it to the engine layout. I've got 3 harnesses, one of them is supposed to be for a big block, but it isn't for the 6-pack, and it sure isn't for electronic ignition. So I've got that to do.
The only wiring that's left is the engine harness, and that has to wait because I have to match it to the engine layout. I've got 3 harnesses, one of them is supposed to be for a big block, but it isn't for the 6-pack, and it sure isn't for electronic ignition. So I've got that to do.
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Rip it out and Goop in a new/replacement. $$$ saved
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah with the never-ending parade of UPS boxes related to this thing, I have to choose where to save and where to spend.
The good part is a) this isn't holding anything else up and b) if I screw it up it's not a big deal to just take it back out of the bumper and replace it later
Evaporust has been recommended - don't think that's such a good idea since I can't get it apart. There's wiring and insulation in there and I expect that Evaporust is an acid.