Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Got the #'s off the one that was in the car, the other had no #'s but I did notice the tank is thinner than the one that was in the car, now I'm20231017_110659.jpg20231017_110711.jpg20231017_110805.jpg hoping mine can be revived!
 
I assume the 3692925 is the one from your car? That's listed as either 1974 E-body or 1974 B-body, depending on whom you believe. That's definitely the one I'd use.

Call @74DartSport's guy and see what can be done. Brackets coming off is not a big deal... anything that was attached can be reattached.

The other unit is some sort of aftermarket replacement. Chrysler's copper/brass units always had a part number stamped in the top tank, as well as a Pentastar and the coolant advisory.
 
OK, midland sounds like a winner, talked to a guy named Tom, complete recore bout 550, repairs 85 or 90, He said they will check the flow & look it over then tell me what has to be done, if just a clean & repair I may get lucky?
Either way I'll have the original top tank at the least!
 
Got a few little things done, used my knees as a carpet stretcher to try & get the rear piece to lay in a little better. 20231017_113930.jpgmade my first slice in the front to try & get that closer to laying out nice20231017_113944.jpg
looks like I need a slice by the gas pedal & it was close to the column hole. 20231017_113955.jpgSo I dug out the floor bracket & put that in.20231017_153237.jpg
Missing one firewall nut so I had to use a nut & bolt.20231017_154217.jpgI'm thinking I better get the brake booster & pedal in before I muck things up with the column.
Tied in the speedo cable at the tranny, it's lookin nice under there! 20231017_154130.jpg& got the jute glued on the back of the divider & stuck that in.20231017_154428.jpg
 
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Holy crapoli I'm old, should have put that booster & pedal in before the dash.
It would have helped if I mounted the booster rod in the right hole the first time, again I managed to make a simple job a life long project!
They are finally in, just have to find a pic of the wires for the brake lights to get those on.
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What does that green metal clip do, I think I had one in the other car too just hanging there? 20231018_143807.jpg
 
That's the flasher clip. The one that's dangling by the fuse box in your post's first pic goes in it. It should not be hanging by its wires. The flat part should be against the pedal bracket with the wires facing straight out.
 
Is there any point to me putting the steel crash plates back in by the quarter windows, don't care bout weight I'm not going racing? 20231019_130435.jpg
 
Got the upper front window trim on, at least something went pretty good!
have to pull the fenders to put the corners in, but I think I have to get some wiper goodies in the cowl before I put on the lower piece? 20231019_152253.jpgAnd yet another little job I managed to make more difficult, should have put in the proportioning valve & brake lines in while the bay was empty!
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RUSTY Cuda said:
Is there any point to me putting the steel crash plates back in by the quarter windows, don't care bout weight I'm not going racing? View attachment 26443
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Believe it or not, those plates were part of the "increased rollover protection" scheme implemented in 1973. Chrysler put them where they found the body would buckle, allowing more collapsing of the roof in a rollover. It was another requirement of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard change that also required the buck-tooth bumper guards on 1973-'74 cars. They did not exist on 1970-'72 cars.

They do increase chassis stiffness somewhat, which would improve handling a bit--although not enough that you'd likely notice in ordinary driving--but offer no known increase in side-impact safety. Since they didn't exist prior to 1973, you can leave 'em off if you're so inclined. I recently found one for my '74, which was missing the driver's-side piece, and I'll add 'em to my '71 if I find another pair. I am concerned about weight, but I tend to run my cars pretty hard through the twisties. Every little bit of added rigidity helps there.
 
Shoot me your address & I'll get them to you, it's the least I can do to offer a thank you for all your help!
There will be other e body goodies coming later!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
have to pull the fenders to put the corners in
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It's exhausting to install things just to remove them later, amirite?
RUSTY Cuda said:
should have put in the proportioning valve & brake lines in while the bay was empty!
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That's why I was thinking about converting to hydraulic while the engine's out. I'm resisting the urge to strip and repaint while it's out because that's the road that leads to restoration hell, but will definitely spend time with some goo-gone and a rag wiping off as much of the spray bomb black as possible.
 
At least the fenders are just hanging on 3 bolts, I need to make the final adjustments on the doors & glass before I can set those, I'm dying to put the front end together but it just makes everything harder to get to.
I really need a step by step instruction sheet, like my model cars come with!
 
OK first up, just to please the doc!
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Then I moved on to the wiper gear, I had a hard time getting the motor on the studs, actually had to take the metal stops out of the gromets to get enough play to work it in there, I put the stops on the studs & carefully worked the rubber back on them.
got all that in & then put on the lower trim! 20231020_144023.jpgAs usual there is a piece left over, this little clip, it was in the bag with the motor hardware................20231020_152833.jpgDoes it go over the nut that holds the rod to the motor, I can't see any other place for it? 20231020_144054.jpg
 
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