Work on my car.

71Satcloned2runner

71Satcloned2runner

Raodrunners Rock!
Well,

It's now in the shop and getting done. For spring I need to:

1. Rear main seal leak
2. Tranny pan new gasket
3. Rear diff leak (gasket?)
4. New ball joints in front suspension
5. Reverse light switch installed
6. Pump and container hooked up to wipers
7. heater won't work (likely fuse)
8. Drums and discs need grinding etc
9. kickdown linkage installed


Also, any of you carb guys know why I might have a GM carb on my 400 engine from a truck? I need to find a throttle cable for it. Need to know what kinds of cars I can get them from.

Can anybody tell me what good looks like in regards to the bushings on the control arms? Mine has a small crack, but no real wear other than that on them. I had a mechanic tell me that frame sag is the most common problem on old mopars, and he recommended I change the bushings while the joints get done. Agree? I am not looking at doing them right now, as the mabour on that would be real pricey. Not sure if I can do it myself.

PLease advise, as my bill will be a ton of money, and any job worth saving is good for me. I can show a copy of the estimate for all of you if need be tomorrow.

Cheers,

71.[smilie=2:
 
I'd like to see the estimate, if you don't mind.

Control arm bushings should probably be changed by now, and with the ball joints out already ... If there is any doubt about the condition of the bushings, bite the bullet and do 'em.
What does your mechanic mean by frame sag? Not likely in a Mopar unless it's been rotted and cobbled or SEVERLY abused.
 
Here is the estimate (Canadian Dollars)

Oil Pan Gasket 19.11
Rear Main Seal 17.53
Rear Main Seal 28.74
Transmission Filter Kit 12.60
Upper Ball Joints 103.66
Lower Ball Joints Right 95.53
Lower Ball Joints Left 95.53
Front Wheel Seals 57.46
Rear Brake Shoes 78.32
Rear Wheel Seals 63.94
Pinion Seal 25.35
Trans Ext Housing Seal 18.94
Battery 134.98 (Has a new RV battery already) 134.98
Neutral Safety Switch 20.73
Trans Kickdown Cable 112.49

That is parts wise.

Here is labour Wise

Ball joints upper and lower replace 404.80
Repair Reverse Lights/sockets 88.00
Repack Bearings 140.80
Rear Brake Shoes 140.80
Machine Drums 32.00
Rear Axle Seal/Replace 132.00
Pinion Seal Repair/Replace 132.00
Oil Filter Adapter ??????? 88.00
Trans Pan, Shifter seal, Speedo seal 176.00
Rear exhaust housing seal 176.00
Oil pan gasket repair/replace 440.00

Parts = 884.91
Labour = 1818.40
Shop Supplies = 135.17
Tax = 170.31

$3,008.79[smilie=2:

This seems like bullshit. The battery is new. There are two parts for the rear main seal? That makes no sense. Why so much to repais the gasket on the oilpan too? Razor blading the thing off and putting a new one in should only take like an hour.:wtf:

Any comments?

PS. How much harder is it to rplace those bushings on the control arm while doing this work anyways? I am talking time wise, as I might have a line on some parts. Please let me know.

71.:huh: :huh: :huh:
 
BTW Frame sag meant what happens to the frame up front when an 800 pounnd engine sits there for so many years. The frame starts to sag and the wheels start pointing inwards. The suspension takes the brunt of it apparantly.

I had contradicting opinions on this from two mechanics. One said that the bushings were important, and this guy said there was no point as the cost to do it was too much and they still had a few years left in them as they are not my daily driver.

That was all I got from it.
 
Ummm, how come you ain't doing some/most of the work? Fixing it is part of the joy. :)
 
71Satcloned2runner said:
BTW Frame sag meant what happens to the frame up front when an 800 pounnd engine sits there for so many years. The frame starts to sag and the wheels start pointing inwards. The suspension takes the brunt of it apparantly.

I had contradicting opinions on this from two mechanics. One said that the bushings were important, and this guy said there was no point as the cost to do it was too much and they still had a few years left in them as they are not my daily driver.

That was all I got from it.
Click to expand...

probably more so from the back bumper being 4 feet off the ground for 25 of its 36 years :p does he have an hourly rate or is he just pulling labour rates out his ass?
 
Looking back over the prices, I'm thinking they are rubbing your nose in it pretty hard, even in canadian pesos.
 
71Satcloned2runner said:
Here is labour Wise

Ball joints upper and lower replace 404.80
Repair Reverse Lights/sockets 88.00
Repack Bearings 140.80
Rear Brake Shoes 140.80
Machine Drums 32.00
Rear Axle Seal/Replace 132.00
Pinion Seal Repair/Replace 132.00
Oil Filter Adapter ??????? 88.00
Trans Pan, Shifter seal, Speedo seal 176.00
Rear exhaust housing seal 176.00
Oil pan gasket repair/replace 440.00
Click to expand...




As a professional mechanic I can safely say those labor rates are fucking ridiculous. $140 to install brake shoes? 30 minute job at most. $400 to install balljoints? That's $100 each piece and it's a 2 hour job at most to change them all out. Find another shop, sounds like they want you to support their crack habit.:dgt:
 
beeper*71 said:
As a professional mechanic I can safely say those labor rates are fucking ridiculous. $140 to install brake shoes? 30 minute job at most. $400 to install balljoints? That's $100 each piece and it's a 2 hour job at most to change them all out. Find another shop, sounds like they want you to support their crack habit.:dgt:
Click to expand...
What he said, while I'm not doing it professionally now (no DL) That's FUCKING RIDICULOUS...

And what is a "Rear exhaust housing seal"???

The lower bushings being cracked is weathering in most cases and if they ain't falling out or close to it, don't worry about them right now.
 
It almost sounds like he's pulling the labour rates out a book and costing it like each job is a separate visit.

ie. If you come in for one thing, there's something like a bay charge worked into the cost of the work. But with the car already in there, they should not be charging it over and over again.
 
beeper*71 said:
As a professional mechanic I can safely say those labor rates are fucking ridiculous. $140 to install brake shoes? 30 minute job at most. $400 to install balljoints? That's $100 each piece and it's a 2 hour job at most to change them all out. Find another shop, sounds like they want you to support their crack habit.:dgt:
Click to expand...
I most heartily agree. Take your car outta there and run like hell.Save the estimate they gave you and report them to the Better Business Bureau asap!!!Crooked ass munchers like that deserve nothing better than to be dragged out and shot in the balls for giving the rest of us honest hard working mechanic folks a bad reputation.
Unfortunately I haven't been in Edmonton in so freakin' long I can't even suggest a better place for you check.If you don't mind a short haul -check with Peak Performance in Red Deer[If they're still around-like I said its been a few years since I spent any time in Alberta]they did all the work on a good friend's mud bogger-excellent work and decent prices and honest to the bone.
At the very least though,check around in Edmonton,with the local Mopar crowd and see who they recommend.Just like internet shopping it pays to do some investigating before you break open the piggy bank at some rip-off artist's shop.
Let us know how it goes,
take care,
Marv.
 
dodgechargerfan said:
It almost sounds like he's pulling the labour rates out a book and costing it like each job is a separate visit.

ie. If you come in for one thing, there's something like a bay charge worked into the cost of the work. But with the car already in there, they should not be charging it over and over again.
Click to expand...


That's EXACTLY what he's doing, he's using a flat rate guide.
Believe it or not, those labour times are in line with what most garages are charging nowadays.
My Real Time shows 4.5hr for all four ball joints (not including alignment), 1.4hr for R&R rear shoes, and 6.6hr for main oil seals (includes pan gasket).
However, a good mechanic would easily beat those times all to Hell. A good shop would give you a break on the labour times, IF they wanted your future business. We regularly do it and sometimes still manage to feel guilty about charging too much. :)
$88.00 per hour? Holy Shit! Mine is $62 per hour and that about middle of the road here - not including CTC @ $74 and dealerships around $78-$82.

I do think control arm bushings should be replaced if they show any sloppiness or severe cracking.

Frame Sag? He's feeding you a line of Horseshit. Worn suspension parts maybe, but Mopar front structures tended to be overkill as far as strength goes. I've seen some pretty rotted Mopars still sitting pretty with good front end alignment. Is he a Ford guy?

I just checked Carquest - Moog ball joints $371, list price for all four. He's not giving much of a break at all. Maybe buy the parts yourself?
 
Last edited:
restoman said:
A good shop would give you a break on the labour times, IF they wanted your future business. We regularly do it and sometimes still manage to feel guilty about charging too much. :)
Click to expand...



Same here. Was discussing this suject with my boss today, our labor rate is a paltry $45hr but we keep relatively busy compaired to the big dealerships with their million dollar plus shops and $78hr + rates who's techs are holding up brooms due to lack of work. ;)
 
Kewl,

I approached him and asked him some stuff today. He actually went to explain that this is what the computer charges for these jobs if they were done alone--so he is actually doing more stuff than that. The labour is about 80 an hour, but that is not surprising given the current economy in my area.

Question about the bushings though.

By showing wear, and cracked do you mean severely? THere is one crack on each one up on the front control arms. That's it.

Comments?

The mechanic said he wouldn't do them as they have a few years left (this is by no means my daily driver). I am thinking his advice might be warranted in this case.

And to answer the last question of why don't I do all or most of his myself? I am trying to learn how. I'd love a mentor to work on my car with me here in Edmonton. Speak up if you know anyone!!!!! I amstill moving and dont have the tools or space right now also, but that excuse will only be valid for another 6 weeks.

V.
 
That's how you learn, take it apart and say 'oh crap, how did those bits fit together'?. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top