Waddya think of this jibberish?

dodgechargerfan

dodgechargerfan

In a 55 gallon drum, floating down river, and
Staff member
A friend asked me what I thought of this and what it might be worth.

I really don't know, but I know someone here might have an opinion.

What say you, MOPARnuts?

"Hey Dave. I have a Mopar question I'm hoping you can help me with. This is the info I have…


Engine;
1973 230block (high nickel content)
Factory mounts
Forged crank-factory specs
Six pack rods
Flat top pistons
fully grooved hemi main bearings
stock unmolested cyl bores
re worked oil pasages
hi volume mopar oil pump
half inch milodon oil sump
milodon 7qt pan windage tray
harland sharp gear drive
lunati voodoo cam(int-.533lift/292 duration ex552 lift 284 duration cam set 4 deg advanced)
lunati anti pump lifters
1977 stock mopar heads
dual plane wieand intake
stock mopar elec ignition
Headman b block headers
Trans; 1977 big block 727 torqueflite trans with 2400 b&m holeshot conv.
hurst shifter and cable
Drive shaft stock small yoke (shortened 2'') re balanced
Rearend;
1975 stock 8.25 factory
auburn posi(uses regular gear oil) brass clutches 370 gears
driveshaft set 5 deg down angle
Suspension
stock mopar b body 90/10 gas shocks and 50/50s in the back
b body superstock rear springs"
 
Well, if it's a 230 casting, then he's referring to a 400, which wouldn't have a steel crank unless it was a block cast in '71 nor would Hemi main bearings fit. Six Pack rods wouldn't fit without custom pistons either, never mind that you'd be a moron to use them anyhow. It also seems like a lot of conflicting effort... why would you put that cam and a freakin' gear drive into an otherwise-stock 400, oiling mods notwithstanding?

Possibly it was done to save the sissy rear axle from grenading, especially with those custom-made, fast-wearing and easily-broken brass clutches. Just to make sure it wouldn't last, he cheaped out on the gear oil by not using the required additive for limited-slip differentials.

B&M Holeshot 2,400 stall? That's kind of an expensive upgrade to only get 200-400 more stall than the original converter. 5° nose down on the pinion sounds good for drag/street racing, assuming it was done right (people screw this up all the time). In daily use, expect higher U-joint wear and lower pinion-bearing life to some extent, and you'll probably get some vibration out of it at speed... especially if it was done 5° to the ground, rather than the driveshaft. It's a common mistake, as is setting pinion angle with the car not supported by the tires and suspension, at normal ride height.
 
Yeah, once he started listing the different years, the whole "cast/forged crank" thing started going through my head.

All the cam specs and stall converter numbers are still a mystery to me.
So, I thought I'd ask here, knowing I'd get the straight poop.

Thanks all!

I'm not sure what this is sitting in, I thought it was a pile of components until I got to the pinion angle....unless that's the angle at which it rest on the floor. :D
 
Holy shit, what an abortion. Six pack rods? As mentioned, a stupid ass idea. My guess is it has stock lowdeck rods and whoever wrote the ad just pulled big block mopar buzzwords out of thin air to jazz it up. High nickel in the block? What, did he drop some nickels in the valley before he put the intake on?
 
v8440 said:
Holy shit, what an abortion. Six pack rods? As mentioned, a stupid ass idea. My guess is it has stock lowdeck rods and whoever wrote the ad just pulled big block mopar buzzwords out of thin air to jazz it up. High nickel in the block? What, did he drop some nickels in the valley before he put the intake on?
Click to expand...

nah he dumped em in the waterjacket
 
thrashingcows said:
I would prefer to have a small block stroker in a Volare....not a huge heavy big block.
Click to expand...
F/M/J-bodies can take and handle a big-block much better than the average A-body. Other than the hockey-stick torsion bars--which are more than capable of handling the B/RB series--they're essentially a '73-up B-body, suspension-wise. The only real drawback is the semi-evil handling, to which one can adapt once they've spent some time learning its behavior.

Small-block stroker? Meh. It's essentially a waste of time and money unless you're building a truck engine or can afford some stupidly-expensive heads (think W-series, Indy 360-1/2, B1-BA, etc.). Using anything with a stock intake rocker & pushrod location is pretty much just pissing in the wind.
 
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