Tech help please.

Stretch

Stretch

Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
I am installing a 1968 340 in a 1988 dodge 4x4. This is replacing the throttle body injected 318. The problem I have is a no crank situation. Jass and I rewired for good old electronic ignition like you would to eliminate lean burn, and added an old stile voltage regulator because that task was handled by the computer too.

I guess what I need is the factory wiring diagrams. Can anyone help a fella out? It will be much appreciated.

Thanks guys.
 
You'll get a charge outa this; :D

smMPRALT.jpg
 
They have all sorts of stuff like that over at mymopar.Build sheet info and everything. [smilie=e:
 
Thanks 68 but that is already done. I need to get wiring diagrams for the 88 truck so I can trace the wires for the starting circuit.
 
That truck should have a relay box under the hood? See if you can locate the starter relay,have someone hold the switch while probing with a test light,you may need to install a jumper wire in place of the relay to turn it over.
 
beeper*71 said:
That truck should have a relay box under the hood? See if you can locate the starter relay,have someone hold the switch while probing with a test light,you may need to install a jumper wire in place of the relay to turn it over.
Click to expand...


Tried jumping the terminals and it made no difference. Still will not crank. I also have power feeding back to the turn signal indicators and high beam indicator when the key is in the crank or run position. All of this stuff worked fine when I drove it in with the 318. It seems to point to a bad ground but I have installed and cleaned all of the ground connections under the hood with no luck. We disconnected all of the computer connections in an effort to wire it as a basic electronic system. I am sure I am overlooking something simple here.
 
Have you tried hooking the 'puter back up? Perhaps an open circuit is causing your grief.
Will it run if you turn on the ignition and jump the starter manually?
 
This is kind of dumb, but did you put the factory ground strap back on that goes from the back of the motor to the firewall? If not that WILL cause all kinds of grief, DAMHIK!
 
Nuetral start, wasn't it? First place to look in a no crank situation. Cat or something yanked the plug off my switch last winter, of course I was running late, and it was snowing like crazy.
 
beeper*71 said:
Have you tried hooking the 'puter back up? Perhaps an open circuit is causing your grief.
Will it run if you turn on the ignition and jump the starter manually?
Click to expand...

It makes no difference if the computer is hooked up or not. It will not crank. The grounds are all hooked up. The thing that puzzles me is we cant get it to crank even if we run 12v directly to the starter solenoid and I have that back feed in to the dash at the high beam indicator and the turn signal indicators. That is what is making me think it is a bad ground.
 
How can a starter solenoid feed the lights?It cant unless someone hooked the wrong wire to it.Or to the relay.88 is still tbi and its all gone so dont worry about that stuff,the rest of the harness is basically the same as older years.Were you drunk when you wired it?If so get drunk again and it will come to you-works for me. [smilie=a:
 
Stretch left here about 15 minutes ago, and we discussed this in detail including ideas from this thread and things I remember seeing while wiring the electronic ignition. I can assure you the ground from the back of the motor to the firewall is definitely there--I had to start the bolt with my little girly hands, because Stretch's he-man meat-hooks don't fit back there... but...

Time will tell. We're working on it tonight...

*starts heaping large portions of crow onto Stretch's plate*
 
Dr.Jass said:
*starts heaping large portions of crow onto Stretch's plate*
Click to expand...



Yep and it's a big oll plate.

I can't believe I did this. I feel so incredibly stupid.

You know that old expression about not overlooking the obvious. Well I did and let me tell you it was obvious when I sat down and started rethinking my steps.

I started with what I knew (Bad ground) and I over thought the problem. I cleaned and reconnected both grounds at the bell housing and the one on the back of the intake. I also cleaned the body grounds at the fire wall and the core support. The damn thing still won’t crank and I still have that pesky back feed to the dash lights.

While at work today and after talking to one of the fellow mechanics there I knew what was wrong. (Can I get some help with this plate of crow?)

I left the ground wire from the battery to the block off. Yah the one that goes from the negative battery post to the head 12 inches away. [smilie=e: [smilie=e: [smilie=e:

Now in my own defense I started this engine job three weeks ago and when I pulled the engine I tucked the head end of the negative cable into the fender to keep it out of the way. I then removed the battery when I caught myself setting wrenches on it. I then pushed it out of the garage to do an engine in a Dakota while I waited for parts to arrive for this truck. Man I think this is one of the dumbest things I have ever done! At least I didn’t forget to install the oil pump drive shaft or something like that.
[smilie=e:
 
Eat crow...


Ohh its all good.

We have all missed the obvious more times than once.

Glad to see it back together. [smilie=e:
 
Beer goes well with crow..... :D :D *falls on floor in giggling fit while imagining look on big goofballs face once the realization had set in.* :D :D
 
*waves forkload of crow in front of Stretch while making airplane noises*

Open the hangar wide! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top