I've used some of their stuff, and I have a set of SB head gaskets sitting here I've never installed. They look like a decent gasket--didn't forget to put a fire ring on, or anything stupid like that, but other than water-pump and intake gaskets, I've only used them as wall decoration.
One thing I always keep in mind when rebuilding an engine--most importantly if I haven't installed aftermarket pistons--is the
original design of the head gasket. If you have a 1977 7.8:1-compression 440HP, and replace the factory .020" steel-shim gaskets with a .042" composite gasket, you just dropped a couple of tenths in compression... [smilie=e: Not a lot of performance to be found (without forced induction) in the 7.5:1 neighborhood.
Making sure you know what type of gasket your piston is compression-rated at is crucial, even with aftermarket pistons. If it's rated for a steel shim, but you want to run a composite or even copper gasket, you can at least plan for it by having some extra material removed from the heads. I'll be running an MP thin-steel gasket on my 318, which originally used a thicker composite-style gasket. This will get me approximately two tenths extra compression... a big help to my 1985 cop-car shortblock (originally 8.4:1).
Similarly, I'm a big fan of CCing cylinder heads, since they can vary wildly between castings of even the same batch--factory iron is [i]notorious[/i] for this. I've seen small-block 915J heads with 70cc chambers on one head, and 73? on the other... and big-blocks are no better. Aftermarket heads are
far better, though, usually having the benefit of CNC machining. While burette setups used to cost hundreds of bones from medical/scientific supply houses, they can be had dirt-cheap on eBay nowadays. I paid less than $70 to my door for a 100ml (cc) unit with a stand and clamp... so there's really no reason not to know.