Rear choices/advice

project74

project74

Trying to find my weed and
I may have found the 8.25 I need but could really use some ideas/advice so once again I shall probe the boundless intelligence and limitless ingenuity of those who inhabit this strange yet beautiful place.

(Sucking finished):xl:

Option 1 is an abody unit that was rebuilt in '98 with a new Auburn sure grip unit and a set of Richmond 3.55 gears (the gearing I'm looking for). It has limited miles on it though those miles include several strip runs behind a stout 360 and some time spent on a circle track (not good for the bearings I'm sure). It's a 3 hr drive to go have a look and no brake parts are included with this setup. (No pics available)

Option 2 is also an abody piece that according to seller (who I've heard is reputable) is perfect/A1 and in a daily driven car. A true bolt in. Only catch is that it's an open diff with more of a cruising gear. Brakes are brand new in the last year and I could pick it up in 45 mins.

Here's the dilema. Both rears will cost me the same coin other than the full day's gas money to go view option 1. Option 2 will definitely need a gearing/diff change but that's it. Option 1 could also need this if things burn up on me in a short period of time and a full brake job will be a must. Not meaning to be too blunt but WTF would you do? I have no idea of how to check a rear to see if it's good or not so any help here would be much appreciated too. Things to visually look for, physical tests that can be done, that sort of thing.

I've already considered buying both to make one but that's above my current range so hold that thought :dgt:. I've also wondered if it would be more to my interest to just do a rebuild on things like diff, gear/pinion and bearings no matter what I end up with.

Okay, I'm done with the ramblings. Once more I bow to your eternal wisdom in these matters and turn the ball over to you.

Much thanks in advance.:)
 
One of those rears is either overpriced or underpriced.

Option 1 would be my call. Even though the diff is 10 years old and has some hard usage on it, it's probably a much-better deal than Option 2. Option 2, with newer brakes, is worth no more than $100-$125. Brakes are cheap and easy, just like Mom. Open diff with a 2-series gear? As far as I'm concerned it's a core housing and shafts.

The easy way to check the condition of the SG unit is to jack it up, and bolt tires to it. Have a friend hold one tire firmly against rotation, and you try to turn the other tire. If it doesn't take much effort, it's not long for the world.

If the rear's been raced, I'd definitely replace the C-clips and inspect the spider pinion (cross pin). If it looks like it's taken real beatings from the axle shafts, replace it, but it's likely fine. As far as the bearings, well, being a C-clip axle, the wheel bearings don't take any cornering loads anyhow so they're probably fine. The load gets taken by the spider pinion, and ultimately by the differential side gears which are huge in comparison to most wheel bearings and certainly up to the task.

Option 2 isn't really an option, in my opinion, particularly at the same price. If the 3.55 axle turns over cleanly and has reasonable resistance in the SG unit with the tire test, I'd be all over it.

Well, not really--but you should be. :D
 
To get option 2 to Detroit for me to pick up is about $200 after I chip a bit for shipping costs. Option 1 will cost me $200 straight up once I make a 7 hr round trip to even look at it so a little more for gas. Option 2 guy wanted 3 bills at first but said two would be fine if I picked up :). Should I have any concern about measuring either of these for "strait" and how would I do so? I've heard some rears that have seen some abuse tend to bend a bit.
 
Sorry, man, but an A-body 8.25" rear with an open diff and 3.21 or higher (lower numerically) is a $75 piece, and the brakes are ridiculously cheap to rebuild. I sold the 3.21 Sure Grip rear out of my squad car for $150--and that was on eBay--with almost-new 10" x 2.5" brakes.

Yes, it was an F/M-car piece, but A-body 8.25"ers are far from rare.
 
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