Mechanic needed!!

86Shelbycharger

New member
I am working on a 94 dakota 3.9 auto 4x4 that is running really rich, hard to start when warm, and won't idle when in gear. We have changed the tps, 02 sensor and cleaned all grounds, getting code 44 from the onboard diagnostics not sure what that is, where is the fuel pressure regulator on this truck? I cant seem to find it! I havn't been on this site in a long time due to the shelby and the arrow are still in storage due to lack of funds, but the old 88 caravan is still kicking!! just turned 222000 miles!!!
 
According to my handy dandy code book, a 44 is described as

Battery temperature sensing voltage out of range (too high, or too low)
(Cars 1985-97)(Trucks/Vans/Jeeps/Diesel 1993-97)

Overview
The battery temperature sensor is a temperature controlled variable resistor (thermistor) which monitors battery temperature. The resistance of the sensor changes in direct proportion to battery temperature. The computer uses this information to adjust the alternator's charging rate to compensate for air (ambient) temperature. (The battery requires a higher voltage charging rate at low temperature than at high temperature.) The battery temperature sensor is calibrated to operate at a specified voltage range (typically 0.04 to 4.9 volts), and the computer is calibrated to monitor the sensor within this range. If the battery temperature sensor signal voltage input to the computer is above or below its operating range, the computer sets code 44.

Probable cause:
1. Open or shorted wiring
2. Dirty or loose connectors
3. Defective battery temperature sensor
4. Defective computer


So, something is telling your computer that the temperature of your battery is either high or low and the computer is telling the alternator to adjust its charging rate.
 
Take the throttle body off and clean it up. The IAC or AIS motor is likely hung open. Scrub the T/B while you have it off and clean the carbon out of the AIS/IAC motor seat. Also clean the motor too.
Thats the cheap fix, may need a EGR valve too. Leave the fuel regulator alone. I doubt its bad, and if you dont have the special tool, you'll break fuel lines getting it off.
 
First thing I'd do is run some really-good fuel-injection cleaner through it (Lucas). You may well have an injector hanging open due to dirt. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen a $4 bottle work a miracle.

Next thing I'd look at would be the coolant-temp sensor. If it's bad, the computer forever thinks the engine is cold, and runs it at a mixture like full choke on a carburetor... and that sensor rarely throws a code unless it goes full open. On some late-model Mopars the coolant-temp sensor also runs the gauge via the PCM, but there's a separate temp sender (for the dash gauge) available for your truck so the gauge won't indicate if this is the problem.

I'd also suspect the MAP sensor, though usually that will throw a code... I don't sell many MAP sensors for Chryslers of any ilk anymore much less trucks (during the 2.2L turbo era, I sold plenty) but it's a possibility.

I would think if it were a vacuum leak, it'd be running lean rather than rich. :huh: Still, if the IAC valve is stuck shut, you're essentially getting no air at idle, which would cause it to run fat--but only at idle, since once the throttle is opened the IAC is out of the equation. If it's running rich at cruise, under acceleration, etc., the IAC may be part of the problem, but it's not the problem.

My guess is this:

One common problem for which the V6/V8 Magnums are known is the plenum gasket, which is unfortunately under the intake. It can run rich because not only is it getting fuel, it's burning oil vapor from the engine's valley, even if you're not getting smoke.

If you look down the throttle body and see black, it's shot and needs to be changed. There's no way around it, and it's a tedious job. Here's a little hint if you need to change it: follow the gasket-change procedure to the letter. Do not try to skip a step (like torquing the bolts to final spec on the first try) and do not try to improve the gasket's seal by using a sealant. Do exactly what you're told, or you're going to be doing it again very soon. Halfway through the job, you won't ever want to pull that intake again. It's not that difficult, it's just very time-consuming to do it right.

I've never done one, but I know several people who have. The first was Stretch, and if memory serves, he had to do it twice on his own truck because the first time he didn't follow the instructions exactly. He's the one that stressed to me the importance of torquing in the correct order and in the correct steps as well as not attempting to use sealant because he knows I sell these gaskets frequently. I've had several DIY guys not listen to what I was saying and do the job twice (one guy three times) usually within a week or two. The guy that did it three times followed the torquing procedure to the letter on the second try, but still decided sealant would help. A week later he was back for another gasket. On this task, thus far, Stretch has never been wrong in five years.

Just the two cents of a parts guy... we hear stuff like this every day, and usually customers will come back and tell us their solution.

Have a peek down the throttle body, and I think you'll find your issue.
 
There is somebody that makes an aluminum pan for the intake as opposed to the steel one that is stock. Why they put steel and aluminum together like that is beyond me!!
 
There is a TSB out there with the oil consumption problem talked about above.
I agree with doc on the Lucas cleaner. some of those "snake oils" do good work.
I still say scrub out the T/B and the AIS. Thats the cheapest route and if you do have the consumption issue, you're going to have to do it any way.
 
Thanks guys!! We tried everything as said above except the gasket under the intake, the new cooolant sensor will be here tomorrow, if that won't work we'll be changing the gasket.
Again thanks for your time!!!
Mike.
 
.

. The first was Stretch, and if memory serves, he had to do it twice on his own truck because the first time he didn't follow the instructions exactly.


Memory serves you wrong. I have never done the same set twice. You know I am a stickler for torque specs and procedures.

I doubt the plenum gasket would cause your problem. The computer has no problem compensating for the gasket leak. Symptoms will be pour gas mileage and spark knock if the leak is bad enough. It will also burn oil. It is super easy to check for a leaking plenum gasket. Shine a flashlight down the throttle body (With the engine off) and hold the throttle wide open. If you see oil on the floor of the intake it is leaking. One tip. When you change the gaskets resist the urge to sand or grind the gasket off of the plenum plate. Take your time it will be stuck hard to the plate around the boltholes. A razor blade works best.

I would suspect the coolant temperature sensor or a bad injector. Lucas is the best injector cleaner.

I would not suggest using a brush to clean the throttle body. There is a special coating in there. Use ONLY throttle body cleaner to remove the coaking. This stuff will clean the throttle body, not damage the coating and do it without scrubbing.
 
I was told at a Chrysler training session, by a Chrysler Trainer to scrub T/B's with a toothbrush.
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top