Lotsa work - axle bearings

b-body-bob

b-body-bob

Well-known member
I changed the GTX from Green bearings back to factory tapered bearings this weekend. Don't let anyone tell you it's an easy job - unless you pay someone else to do it.

I had to remove 4 bearings - 2 were from JY axles I got for the end plates/adjuster. I couldn't come up with a safe way to jig them in my press so I had to cut them off with a hammer, chisel, and dremel tool. After all that beating and banging I'm totally stress free today. [smilie=a:

Putting the new bearings back on was a piece of cake since I was able to use my press going that direction.

Now that I've got them changed over, I don't understand the fascination with Green bearings. Setting the axle endplay was a no-brainer, and I should never have to change the bearings again.

Hopefully the roaring noise I was hearing left with the pieces of Green bearings I tossed in the trash. :)
 
sounds like a ton of work to get em off. :( Hope she rolls quietly! [smilie=e:
 
I'm sure you know this, Bob, but for those who don't: after you set endplay, particularly on new bearings, you should drive the car for 15-20 miles, then re-check the endplay. Oft times it will move out of spec after everything settles into place.
 
I'm sure you know this, Bob, but for those who don't: after you set endplay, particularly on new bearings, you should drive the car for 15-20 miles, then re-check the endplay. Oft times it will move out of spec after everything settles into place.
Click to expand...




Didn't know that. [smilie=e:



*runs out side and checks/sets axel endplay*



Thanks, much better now! [smilie=a:


Can't belive I didn't know that! [smilie=e:
 
I'm sure you know this, Bob, but for those who don't: after you set endplay, particularly on new bearings, you should drive the car for 15-20 miles, then re-check the endplay. Oft times it will move out of spec after everything settles into place.
Click to expand...




Didn't know that. [smilie=e:



*runs out side and checks/sets axel endplay*



Thanks, much better now! [smilie=a:


Can't belive I didn't know that! [smilie=e:
 
Yes, I knew to recheck the play after driving, and I also do this to get it as right as possible before driving it the first time:

Put piece of 4x4 board on center of PS axle
Pick up big hammer WHAM WHAM WHAM on 4x4
Repeat for DS
Use adjuster to remove all endplay
Repeat until no new endplay is "found" via WHAM WHAM WHAM

Now back the adjuster off 4 notches.

I did that and had .010 when I finished, and had .010 after the first drive. :beer:

Not only is the noise gone, but the car just feels "solider". That could be my imagination, but I doubt it. It helped that I reset the pinion depth while the pig was out and got rid of a horrible whine there.

Now I'm waiting on a parts drop to have the stuff to relocate spring pads and rebush the springs on the Duster. Got an early B-body 8-3/4" and springs out of a 340 to go under it. If nothing else, this hobby keeps me busy.
 
A fresh tapered roller bearing gets a slightly different preload procedure than a used one due to the rollers bedding into the race when new. Sounds like you got yours just right. Ive never ran the green bearing setup-too much like a furd 9 inch and Ive seen lots of them throw axles. [smilie=e:
 
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