I also have an Imperial!

Dr.Jass

Pastor of Muppets
I might as well start a thread about that one, too. That was the car that was originally supposed to get finished first anyhow. I actually have most of the parts for this build already, unlike the Challenger, but it's a far-more complex build from the get-go.

Those not familiar with the project, it's an '82 Imperial that is getting its original EFI 318 built into my updated, improved version of an EFI 318. To that end, I'll be using a MegaSquirt II EFI controller I built on my kitchen table along with a modified Holley Strip Dominator intake, billet 1,250CFM Motorvation throttle body, and Siemens/Deka 82lb/hr fuel injectors. "Doc," you ask, "Why so large?" Well, that's where the complexity comes into play: Twin turbocharging. Not only turbocharging, but flex-fuel capability so I can run E85 which will allow the ECM to crank up both the boost and the timing relatively dramatically. I'm using a GM (gasp!) fuel-quality sensor which will let the ECM know exactly how much alcohol (and, coincidentally, water) is in the system and adjust accordingly (if there's more than X% water, it faults and shuts the engine off).

Not complex enough, you say? OK, I'm also running distributorless ignition based on Ford's (gasp!) EDIS-8 system, which is a waste-fire arrangement meaning I've got four ignition coils, two modules of two coils each. That'll be triggered by a 36-1 wheel on the crankshaft, between the harmonic dampener and the lower pulley. A serpentine lower pulley, which will require custom fabrication of just about all the accessories (the fuel rails, thermostat and AC compressor have a difference of opinions about living space).

"Pssssh," you say. "Cake walk."

OK, how about dual air-to-liquid intercoolers using active cooling? That should get your interest, though I'm not going to get much further into detail about that. You'll see.

I'm also converting the car to a 4-speed using a mishmash of factory parts, tossing in an 8¾" rear axle with a 2.94:1 Eaton True Trac differential under the back, and using 1988 Conquest TSi SHP wheels, 16"x8" up front and 16"x9" in the rear (hence the wider E-body axle, rather than the time-honored '65-'70 B-body swap). Shifting will be via a modified '70 B-body console Pistol Grip, poking up through a factory '81 Mirada floor console. I'm also using '87 Conquest TSi front leather buckets, which should be fun to try and mount, because I'd like to keep the factory power seat controls on the door working. Final touches include a Kenwood multi-format stereo system w/Infinity drivers and a heavily-customized dash using Speedhut gauges, small digital pyrometers (I ran out of room for gauges), and possibly a real-time readout for PCM parameters. I'm undecided on the latter, since it's kind of "busy" and there's already going to be a lot happening on the dash... then again, it allows for real-time adjustment without connecting the laptop.

Among other things I was doing in the garage today, I worked on the custom dash. At least, the start of it. I broke out the hole saws and made the stiffener plate for the instrument cluster. It was a lot easier in Photoshop than it was with the drill press, mostly because Photoshop doesn't print out the measurements or grid I used for the layout. It didn't have to be perfect, though, since it's only the backing plate.

This was after I'd first cut the holes. I'd not yet trimmed the end, which of course I screwed up a little. The one end isn't as clean as it could be, but it is what it is, and it'll be hidden anyhow.

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I set the gauges in it prior to going any further with it. If they didn't fit (and they barely do from the back) I'd have had to determine a new plan. For the curious that can't read 'em, the gauges from top left to bottom right: Boost, quad temp/oil/fuel/volts, tachometer, speedometer, A/F ratio (wideband, plugs right into my Innovate controller), oil temp, and 100PSI fuel pressure.

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This was one of the reasons I went with the Speedhut gauges: Mounting depth. There's not a lot of room behind where this cluster will mount, and AutoMeter, VDO, etc. are all too deep.

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Of course, being able to choose my own font style helped, too, though I'm not 100% satisfied with those results. I chose the font used on early '80s Mopar RWDers, but somehow their art department kind of fucked it up. Ah, well, I'm committed for the time being, though I can replace the faces and bezels on these should I want a different look. This is a very-rough mockup, as I've not yet trimmed the bezel to clear the gauge bezels. As I mentioned, the steel plate is just a stiffener; the final look will be much more befitting an Imperial.

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damn those things are THIN....mental note taken


being an imperial i half feel the faces should be white..with chrome? lettering..i remember the early 80s stuff being flashy yet subtle
 
They are pretty damned thin, aren't they? They also have a lifetime warranty on the gauges, except for weather-related damage (they're not waterproof). In the long run, they were much cheaper than AutoMeters or VDOs, although a couple of the gauges were rather pricey compared to more-known brands. I couldn't even get some of what I wanted from the others (a plug-in wideband, for instance).

The original Imperial cluster was digital, so the "face" was nasty-looking simulated burl walnut. Other Chryslers of the day used brushed-aluminum faces with a black band around white numerals. Speedhut will make just about anything you want, as long as you're willing to open your wallet. The custom font I wanted only cost me $20 per order ($40 total) and the rest of the stuff was "off the shelf". It took a little longer, but the "stock" fonts they have didn't suit my tastes for this car.
 
thats right..brushed with black.....can they make you simulated brushed with black?..cause if you could get it closer to stock looking that would be wild
 
thats right..brushed with black.....can they make you simulated brushed with black?..cause if you could get it closer to stock looking that would be wild
They can, but when you get into completely custom faces they get very expensive.

Another thing I like is that they use electroluminescent lighting. The numbers light up green at night, while the needles remain orange. I could've also gotten white needles that illuminate blue or orange at night, but I went with a more subtle, classic look. I like high-visibility needles.

You can check out some of their custom stuff here. I didn't see 'em in a quick glance, but I know they had a picture of some with engine-turned faces on them back when I ordered mine.
 
those are beautifull...so..i have to ask..what did your set run you shipped?

ive NEVER been a fan of aftermarket units..but these..i could find a way to live with..they are just that nice
 
Um, a lot. Too much, really, but by the same token, less than comparable AutoMeters would have cost. There are 10 gauges there, all of which are stepper-motor driven and use mil-spec senders. The bezels are replaceable solid aluminum, anodized black but I can thread them off to change the look if I want, using replacement bezels. The speedometer is programmable (works with virtually any sender), as is the tach and quad gauge (which has programmable warning LEDs for each gauge, visible in the pics. The fuel gauge works with any sender; it doesn't include one. You program empty then full by swinging the sender, and you're done. All the gauges hold their programming in the event of power loss, so if you disconnect the battery, pull 'em from the car, etc. they'll stay programmed.

So, there's a lot to consider when you realize I paid almost 3 times for the gauges what I did for the car into which they're going. Total with shipping and custom art charges was $929.29. Now you know why I had to break it up over two orders. :doh: I think that first order was during a promotion, too, which come up now and again. But they always do a mutli-gauge discount of 10% if you order (I think) three or more.
 
Dragging up old stuff, but which Innovate controller are you using? I ask because I'm looking at the LM-2 for my Durango. Won't need it so much with the present engine, but the tuner I plan on using recommends the wideband AFR and I want to be really familiar with it before the new motor goes together.
 
I've got two LC-2s, both of which are for sale. The LM-2 is just a whole bunch of what I didn't need, so I wasn't going to pay the extra for it. All I needed was a feed for a gauge, and a 0-5v analog output to the MegaSquirt. The LC-2 fulfills my needs, but I'm going to be upgrading to more-accurate controllers and possibly NTK sensors. I say "possibly" because with each iteration, NTK and Bosch seem to leapfrog one another in terms of accuracy and/or resolution. The LC-2s that I have came with the LSU4.9 sensors, which as far as I'm aware are their current latest and greatest.
 
With the LC-2 a gauge would need to be added unless I drove with the laptop, correct? I'm not against something like that, since the tuner will need to plug in a computer to program the Durango anyway.
 
I got the PLX Devices A/F wideband system (the combo with the DM6 touch screen gauge) for my VW powered sand rail last year. I got it to tune the dual 2 barrel Webber style carbs I'll be putting on it to replace the single barrel centermount. It hasn't been installed yet, so I'll probably use it on the W300 to tune the Holley 750 first.

The price wasn't bad on it (about $175 IIRC) and the best part was the expandability of the system. I can daisy chain other available modules for reading other stuff like CHT, EGT, Boost, OP, FP, AIT, etc... All of which can be routed to the one DM6 display module where you can scroll through the different readings from the modules. The DM6 has a standard 52mm format face on it, but is THINNER than those Speedhut gauges.[smilie=2:

Speaking of the Speedhut gauges, I've been looking at getting those for my sand rail (which will be street legal) for a while now and like them for all the reasons you've discovered. I haven't picked them up yet due to the other reason you've also found out about, the cost.
 
The PLX stuff is pretty nice. I dealt with that a little at the diesel shop, but I've no use for all the gizmos or geegaws available with wideband controllers. As 71ChargerRT mentioned, yes, a gauge is not included in the LC-2 package, which was perfect for me (look again at the Speedhut gauges, there's an A:F ratio gauge in that cluster). My controller needs only report to my laptop and/or the dyno computer when the car gets tuned, and the PCM for realtime correction afterwards. That's it. The gauge is only to let me know all is well, just like oil pressure and water temp.

As far as the cost of the Speedhut gauges, keep in mind that for the $929.29 I spent, there are literally 10 gauges there, so it's an average of about $93/gauge. Now, price an Autometer or VDO programmable speedo and tach, and full-sweep (270°) electrical gauges: Water temp, $180; voltage, $135; 100PSI fuel pressure a staggering $240! By comparison, the Speedhut stuff is actually pretty inexpensive, it's U.S.-made, and you get to play God with every gauge's appearance to boot. It's a hard deal to beat, and even starting with an AutoMeter 5- or 6-gauge kit, I'd have been way over a grand with the number and type of gauges I wanted.

My left and right pyrometers are digital-readout programmable Auber standalones that will be mounted below the stereo, because I'm a cheap bastard at heart. $190.22 for two programmable controllers with digital readouts, along with the thermocouples, to my door including an extra $8 each to get 'em with amber digits. If the EGT goes too high on one bank, that gauge will send a signal to the MegaSquirt to dial back the crazy until things are within an acceptable hysteresis. No need for my input, it's part of a complete self-protection strategy I've engineered to allow the system to defend the engine against any and all potential failure modes: Lean/rich conditions, insufficient fuel pressure, alcohol content in the fuel, knock, excessive EGT, IAT, coolant temp, you name it. If it can fuck up my motor, especially at 15PSI, I've devised a strategy to defend against it. I've worked it out so that even if part or all of my boost control system undergoes a total failure, the turbos will only generate about 3-4PSI.

Once it's all programmed and tuned, it's all automatic. I won't spend half my wheel time checking my gauges. I'll never actually have to think about anything but enjoying the drive until something on the dash illuminates... and when it does, I don't want to look at some idiotic screen on my dash that I have to decipher whether it's coolant temp, overboost, or simply Donkey Kong Jr. demo mode. I don't even like the fact that my pyros are digital, but they've got warning lights and were kind of required due to the fact that I was absolutely out of available cluster space.
 
Though it's been years since anything was updated on this one, the project is still active if only on the back burner. Agnes (the Valiant) and my Challenger have just consumed most of my time and/or space.

Also, the project got both changed and upgraded. The modified Strip Dominator is off the menu now, as there was a change of plan on the cylinder heads. I've now got a set of 65cc W2 race heads, 2.08"/1.625" valves, so I picked up an Edelbrock W2 tunnel ram for which I'm planning a custom plenum to replace the dual-four-barrel top. All that will be sitting atop what is now a mild stroker engine: the 318 block is getting an 8-bolt 3.51" Mopar Performance steel crank (no that stroke is not a typo). That will net me 340-ish cubes. I also virtually stole a set of brand-new BME aluminum rods for it. It just keeps getting crazier.

I also sold the Kenwood stereo equipment and upgraded to a vintage Alpine 7909J CD player, MP3-compatible Alpine 6-disc changer, and vintage Japan-built, 1980s-era Alpine and Nakamichi amplifiers. You simply can't buy new stuff built like that anymore. As an aside, the 7909J (from the late '80s) is widely considered the best CD player ever made, by anyone, ever, anywhere, for any application (home, studio, car, etc.). It sold for $1,700 in 1989... that would be over $3,600 today.

I've still got some hurdles I'd like to overcome prior to turning Wrench One on this thing; it's nice to have a plan from which to work going in. The fuel tank in the car literally isn't tall enough for the usual electric-pump setup; I recently figured this out (for the most part) by using a 525LPH Walbro tank in the stock sender (horizontally oriented--it lays on the tank floor) feeding a surge tank fitted with two AEM 340LPH pumps. Fuel supply should not be an issue at my goals with this arrangement. Turbo mounting and orientation is still a bit of an issue; I've got a plan that I'm sure will utlimately kick me in the 'nads. There's still a lot to consider before I begin the execution, but I assure you this project is very much alive if only in my mind for now.
 
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Whilst messing around with shifters for the Valiant early last year, I'd found the shortened Pistol Grip handle I bought for the Imperial... I decided to drag the console out of the garage attic, and started looking at dimensions and making educated guesses.

Sometimes a hunch pays off. This is just a mockup obviously, but I think you'd agree: That '70 B-body console boot is a nearly-perfect fit in the J-body console. I'll need to make an adapter for it to come straight up through the middle of the console and probably further shorten the handle, but knowing the way these cars are laid out, it should fall almost perfectly to hand--both fore/aft and laterally.

It's a small victory, but an exciting one for me nonetheless.

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Yeah, something needs to be done about that... on both our parts. 🙄

I'm hoping to find the motivation next week while I'm on vacation.
 
Don't do it. I wasted about 5 weekends organizing and throwing things out, only to get it messy again and found myself still looking for tools I either put away or tossed out. Finally got some cabinets installed, which took way longer than expected, but things are looking better.
 

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