Denso Retrofit?

Diplomat_Wagon

Diplomat_Wagon

Hiding In The Bushes While
Need to buy a new alternator for my truck has anyone here retro fitted a late model alternator onto a early model vehicle?

If so what do I need to pick up. :huh:
 
I got mine off a mid 90's dodge van...this is one of the potential upgrades I may or may not do but thought I'd get one anyways.
 
dodge minivans use the same unit but a different pulley..if you look for a minivan with power windows locks and AC look at the lable..good chance its a 120amp unit
 
if i have an alternater that is an 80 amp - i take and have it rebuilt for a 100. and i get at least 125 - 150amps. then i know that i am good for anything i want to do. be it radio cb lots of lites ( cheap insurance) and if i pull trailers that is there to help. -- so when i look at what i can buy new- this is the better way to go and get what i want. i have alt,s in the shop that are 125 and up. if you can get one off of a bus then your in luck. they start at 100 amp and go up. to bigger is better. i know it is for your pu. but thats what i do to p-ups to...
 
you can take alt,s to and make wid generators out of them. ---- something to think about. when i seen your pics of your house you have great places to put them. :)
 
If you're gonna do this upgrade, you'll want to upgrade the wiring as well. The standard Mopar roundback/squareback alternator's greatest output was 63 amps, if memory serves (and it may not). Most of the muscle-era cars (until the advent of heated-element rear-window defrost) were 37 or 46 amps. Try and push 100A through it, and your main power wire becomes one big, very hot, fusible link. The big Leece-Neville alts were 100A and required special bracketry and a specific wiring harness. That's what's on the Imperial... for now. I don't plan on keeping it. It's impossible to get service parts for it, and reman units are still stupid-expensive. I think it went away in the late '80s with the advent of the Nipple Density units originally used on Chrysler products with the Itchypussy 3.0L.
 
Dr.Jass said:
If you're gonna do this upgrade, you'll want to upgrade the wiring as well.
Click to expand...


Yes, that.

Have you not done it already bypass the factory amp gauge, it will go poof. Install a volt gauge instead. Also the main bulkhead is another trouble spot. One fix here is to eliminate the main power suppy terminal and run a solid wire though the firewall. You can drill out the original terminal in the bukhead and run the wire through there.
Why do this? The terminals are notoriously weak and create resistance which in turn creates heat, the added amps from the late model alt will certainly increase the amount of resistance...and heat.
Should your terminal be in excellent condition you can also clean it with a good electrical cleaner add di-electric grease and monitor it closely once the new alt is installed.
 
Dr.Jass said:
If you're gonna do this upgrade, you'll want to upgrade the wiring as well. The standard Mopar roundback/squareback alternator's greatest output was 63 amps, if memory serves (and it may not). Most of the muscle-era cars (until the advent of heated-element rear-window defrost) were 37 or 46 amps. Try and push 100A through it, and your main power wire becomes one big, very hot, fusible link. The big Leece-Neville alts were 100A and required special bracketry and a specific wiring harness. That's what's on the Imperial... for now. I don't plan on keeping it. It's impossible to get service parts for it, and reman units are still stupid-expensive. I think it went away in the late '80s with the advent of the Nipple Density units originally used on Chrysler products with the Itchypussy 3.0L.
Click to expand...



6ga. cable run directly from alt output tp battery, upgraded last year.;)
 
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