Another truck lift question.

Diplomat_Wagon

Hiding In The Bushes While
Ok, I bought 2.5" lift springs for the front but there are no 2.5" lift springs for the back.

My truck already has 3.5" blocks at the back. Is that stock?:huh:

I would like to remove the blocks so I figure I would need a 6" lift spring to remove the block and go up another 2.5" right?

I'm just guessing here. :confused::doh:
 
my RC came factroy with CASTIRON blocks in the back and they look closer to 4 inch...from what ive seen there was a slightly "lifted" package availible on mopar trucks that came with 30inch tires
 
actualy the castiron blocks are tuff as nails and dont wear down goofy like aluminum units.....the stock castiron units will take more of a beating than the truck frame itself can handle...asumeing your u-bolts are good and tight........my rc has been in the air on full throttle tooooooo many times both on and off road as well as a few hard turn 2 wheel shots
 
your on the rite track Levi--keep it up and one day youll need an elavater to get into the box. and a slide t5o get out... hey a Red Neck ground equip and portable to... :bwuhaha:
 
I wanted to remove the blocks because I found with hard braking and early downshifting I was getting horrible wheel hop.

So out with the blocks, I always figured they were the wrong way to get any lift/lower more then an inch anyways.


Thanks Orvil!

Hey, will I be able to drive the new bearings onto the rotor with a block of wood and a hammer?

Or will I have to take it to a machine shop to have 'em pressed on?
 
The blocks are factory. The wheel hop is from bad shocks. Change them with good quality shocks. The wheel hop will stop.
 
The blocks are factory. The wheel hop is from bad shocks. Change them with good quality shocks. The wheel hop will stop.



Here comes Peter Cottontail hoppin down the bunny trail..hippity hoppity Easters on it's way.....


I'm too hopped up to stop. :calvin:














Sorry. :shifty:
 

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