440 questions....

thrashingcows

thrashingcows

Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Alright it seems when I took the wagon to the drags this summer I did hurt the motor. It burning oil badly now. Guess it was too much for a 90K + mile motor. Anyway I'm search about for a good motor right now and came across a couple. Both are cast crank motors. My question is with the cast crank balancer on the front of the motor will all the pullies off the 71 steel crank 440 I'm currently running still line up???
 
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For one thing, the bolt patterns for the crank pulleys are different. If the cast crank pulley will line up your pulleys is someone elses guess. :huh:
 
Yes, the belts will align. You will have to oval one hole in the crank pulley to get it to fit.

Before you get too excited about replacing the engine, change your intake gasket. I'll bet that fixes it, if done correctly. Never, ever use the paper facings.
 
Hmmm...never thought about the intake pan. And I never use the paper gaskets with the pan...thin coat of sealant on either side...tack up...install pan and torque. Never had one leak on me before...but worth a try.

What it's doing is burning oil slightly when at idle. It then keeps building up in the motor until your ready to go. Then when you take off it pushes a huge cloud of blue. It also smokes when your accelerating, then lift off and coast. It will take a second or two, but it will start to billow smoke for several seconds.

Thoughts?
 
The turkey pan is a lot cheaper to try first. It sounds like you're getting smoke in high-vacuum situations, which would point in that direction. It sounds like it's sucking oil from the lifter valley. The rings could be shot, too, but I'd definitely try the gasket first. For the record, the only sealant I've had luck with on those intakes is Permatex's High-Tack spray. Most sealants are not fuel-resistant; High-Tack is and it works wonders. Coat both sides of the flanges, let it tack up a little, and install.

I know I shouldn't even say it but even though it's metal, that intake gasket is one-time-use only. If you have to remove the intake for any reason, it absolutely must be replaced! I don't care how much sealant you use, it's going to leak and usually in exactly this manner. I've been down this road on other people's engines. It has never once occurred to me to re-use a gasket of any kind unless was a desperation move to get me back on the road until I could fix it correctly.
 
Well I was planning on a cam and intake swap next season...so maybe I'll do this first and see what happens.

Planning on running a dual plane Edelbrock Performer intake, with a stock Mopar Performance 440/6-Hemi grind cam. I tried this cam in the 383 in my 68 Coronet years ago and the little 383, with 3.23's just didn't keep the motor in the right RPM window for decent performance...as well as the 383 just doesn't have the stump pulling torque of the 440 to grunt through that RPM lag.
 
Which cam is it? The Hemi grind is a 280/.474" grind, the Six Pack cam is the same grind as any other 440 Magnum; in 1969 only the OEM cam was specified as low taper, meaning faster rate of lift on the same duration and lift specs as the regular Magnum engine. The MP 440/Six Pack restoration cam is not the low-taper grind. I would think that for the way you use the car, you'd be better off with the smaller camshaft. You'll have more torque and probably better economy with a carload of family. However, both of those cam designs are over 40 years old; as usual I would tell you to get in contact with a cam manufacturer or three for recommendations based on total honesty about the rest of the engine, the weight of the car, and primary usage. Even the pros do this.

As far as the Performer intake, you might see similar gains on the low end in the form of a few lbs./ft. of torque, but as I've said time and again, it makes less overall power than the factory intakes (particularly the spread-bore units). You might like to keep some of the upper-end power for passing maneuvers, etc. I'd either stick with OE, or look into something like a Performer RPM or an old CH4B.
 
I have an old CH4B.

Still bolted to the engine in my Newport.

Hey Cow, you interested in a set of Schumacher Tri-Y BB manifold replacement shortie headers?

They are still bolted to the old Newport also. :D
 
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Only problem I see with running the CH4B is the fact I'm running the TQ...so I'd have to run an adapter...which then throws off all my choke, and throttle linkage etc....not a fan of changing all that. I'd prefer to keep it a spread bore manifold. So guess I might stick with the facotry cast unit I'm running now.

As for the specs on the old cam I have...not sure...lost the box long ago. I'm pretty sure it was the Hemi grind, and I thought the 440/6 ran that grind as well. Oly reason I was going to run it was because I already had it. I know cams have come a long way over the years, and I probably could get something a lot better...but might run it for a year of two while I decide on another cam to go with.
 
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thrashingcows said:
Only problem I see with running the CH4B is the fact I'm running the TQ...so I'd have to run an adapter...which then throws off all my choke, and throttle linkage etc....not a fan of changing all that. I'd prefer to keep it a spread bore manifold. So guess I might stick with the facotry cast unit I'm running now.

As for the specs on the old cam I have...not sure...lost the box long ago. I'm pretty sure it was the Hemi grind, and I thought the 440/6 ran that grind as well. Oly reason I was going to run it was because I already had it. I know cams have come a long way over the years, and I probably could get something a lot better...but might run it for a year of two while I decide on another cam to go with.
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I don't blame you for not wanting to mess around with adapters and such, especially if all that factory-style creamy goodness works now. Like I said, for you're primary usage of the car, that's all nice stuff to just leave alone. By the time you're done screwing with all that to get it to function, it still won't be "right". I'd stick with the iron, because all that stuff's going to change with an RPM, too.

No, as I said the Six-Pack cam had the same specs as a standard Magnum cam (it's a split pattern, higher duration and lift on the exhaust side which is great if you have manifolds). As far as determining exactly what cam you have, that's pretty simple. With the lobe pointing straight up or straight down, measure across the sides with a digital caliper to determine base circle. Wiggle it (just a little bit! :D ) until you get your smallest reading. After that, measure the height of the lobe to the base. Make sure both measurements are taken at the same place on the lobe, meaning front-to-rear as it sits in the engine since all flat-tappet cam lobes are tapered to rotate the lifters. Subtract the small reading from the large, then multiply by 1.5 (rocker ratio) and that will tell you actual lift. Do this on both an intake and an exhaust lobe. If it's an MP cam, it should be pretty easy to figure out what you've got. If it's a Hemi grind or larger, it will be a straight-pattern cam; the smaller cams are mostly split-pattern.
 
Diplomat_Wagon said:
Did you put on headers cow?
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I would have to be pretty desperate before I would run headers....I will always run factory HP manifolds. I have factory HP manifolds with full 2.5" exhaust....more then enough for my needs.

Sell those tri-Y's to 71...But I'd like to see some pics of those bad boys though.
 
thrashingcows said:
I would have to be pretty desperate before I would run headers....I will always run factory HP manifolds. I have factory HP manifolds with full 2.5" exhaust....more then enough for my needs.
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Agreed. Although, as far as headers go, shorties and Tri-Y are far less problematic than full-length undercar headers. I'm happy that I'm running a small-block, simply because there are so many more options available... and my particular situation is going to require some creativity.
 
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