Search results

A tachometer needs only 3 wires to operate, pos +, neg -, and a pulse wire, negative terminal of coil.

Disconnect the timing light and put it back in the drawer. Then adjust timing to get your best idle. Final timing can be done when driving at full temp. While cruising at city speed give a quick stab of about half throttle. If it pings, back off the timing a couple deg. No more ping, perfect...

That's a nice dist cap, I like it. 😊

The bottom of the shaft has 6 flat sides, equally spaced, So spinning the shaft so the other end is the "point" would end in the same location. The rotor should point to the correct #1 spot on the cap. If not, move the shaft one gear tooth in the correct direction. (Or rotate the dist that far...

You probably will be until you get the bugs worked out. :ROFLMAO:

It wasn't a "collapse", it was a orchestrated destruction.

Don't try to re-thread. You'll notice that the outer diameter of the threaded portion is slightly larger diameter than the remainder of the shank. You'll end up with crappy threads. Carefully measure and cut off the hook(s) and re-bend. Heat will become your best friend for this. You don't want...

It sticks out worse than a sore thumb. And the Doc will never let you live it down.

Judging by the dimension you gave, I would say that aligning the disc to the pilot bearing without the bell did not align the bearing retainer to the bell opening. You may have noticed that without the bell you can move the trans up 'n' down quite a bit.

Before you go any further, paint the core support black with stone guard paint. It's what I've found to be nearest to the slop that they used when new.

Being that Rusty's engine has been previously run, and well seasoned, I wouldn't do any more than crank it with the coil wire off until the oil gauge shows pressure.

"Detailer" & "Inspection" I think are the same things by different names. I've been using both for many years. I don't wash my cars. Water & detergent do not touch my cars. And the paint on my convert is over 30 yrs old. It's fantastic stuff. Removes road dirt, dust, bird shit and any other...

If you're going to service an AT save the dirty ATF and dribble some in that driveway crack to keep the weeds down. Drain oil will stain the cement, but ATF won't.

If you know any builders or remodelers they always have leftovers. If you don't find anything say the word, I can send you a big bunch.

It's a good idea to replace the plastic. It's a fantastic vapor barrier. And we all know what moisture does to door panels, and it helps slightly as a sound & dust barrier. I've been using the same plastic is normally used as a vapor barrier for home constructions. A little heavier than OEM...

30K is still small potatoes when you look at market value. And market value never seems to go down.

For a B body the correct ones would be the ones with the round J hooks. I wouldn't know what the E bodies used, possibly the flattened J hooks. 🤔

Viking, you scoundrel, we've missed you around here. Fill us in on what's going on in your life. Have you been a good boy or not? 🤔

Seems to be the main issue of anything remotely satisfying.

----or a wife leaving you at the train station. :ROFLMAO: