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A long time friend, now passed, that ran an upholstery business, had a saying: "The dissatisfaction of poor workmanship far outlives the discomfort of high costs".

Here's a nice one for near the same price with a vented cap; Mopar Electronic Ignition Distributor Smallblock Plym Dodge 318/340/360 NOS Cap | eBay

If the tan cap has a vent with a black cap on it, that's the one you want. Tan is OEM color and vented caps are a big plus. Electronics create heat.

I use acetone for prepping for paint and as a small engine carb cleaner. Put about 1 oz. per gallon in the tank. Saves the work of pulling the carb apart on your lawnmower, motorcycle, even a moped.

I became eligible for a "30 & out" option 22 yrs ago next month. Many times have wondered how I found time to go to work. Some sage words of advice for anyone contemplating retirement, if you don't have a hobby or outside interest that can keep you busy often-----FIND ONE. I watched too many...

An RTV type product on the underside of the rivets works best. GOOP or E6000 work best. Let it cure overnight and you'll have to chisel it to get it off.

You want lots of spray, but others install crank scrapers. :unsure:

I bought one of these over 25 yrs ago, used many, many times, and I love it. The corrugation creates much less friction pushing the pistons down. https://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91089424_L.jpg

There is a very minimal increase in power & exhaust resonance X has over the H.

For that much I would spend the time masking, painting & detailing.......or steal one.:p

....And a career in metal bending pays off again. :unsure:😉

My normal technique is; with a drift punch, tap an outer spot to turn the plug sideways. Then pull it out with a pliers. To install new, find a socket that fits near snug inside the plug. Then tap it in until just beyond flush. Make huge effort to always keep it square. Some guys like to add a...

I had some Cragar SS's that were pealing bad. Had them blasted to just rough the surface so that paint could adhere. Then rattle canned flat black. Almost 20 yrs and still no flaking or pealing.

Quality control and factory fitment during this period was horrible. Striving for that "perfection" to something that never had it is the bane of our hobby. You may find that this particular issue occurred on every one built that year. A "factory flaw" that was "close enough".

I had the dash core for my 68 Coronet 'vert done by Classic Car Interior Restoration | Just Dashes in '93. Gorgeous work and still looks like new 30 yrs later. They may be who YearOne goes thru. Not the cheapest, but definitely the best

Eventually the shaft will no longer spin, as soon as it hits its' internal stop. (lock-to-lock) Remember?😊

The plastic connector that you need should be the same as used on many windshield washer systems.

Think of a "drive-by-wire" system as being a high tech sewing machine with an ECM controlling current flow. The first thing I'd do is find out the ECM-to-throttle body voltage/ amp range. Power could easily be controlled by using a household light dimmer.

Don't forget, torsion bars are side specific as per markings on the ends.