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This is a fantastic place to find all the oddball clips; Mr. G's Enterprises - Home Page

Priorities, it all comes down to your personal priorities.

You've got very good compression, except (maybe) the 167. You should've dribbled some oil in that cylinder & re-checked. If it comes up a lot, it's a ring seal issue. If it only raises slightly, it's a valve seal issue. Which could be related to the inactive years, or a small carbon deposit on a...

Because you'll only be heating one side of the pipe why not cushion it on a pile of wet rags?

I don't recall, is it a stock cam or aftermarket? The erratic vacuum would tell me aftermarket. If stock, the vacuum could suggest slight compression leakage due to non-use for a period. This may self-cure after some road time. And for the "clunky noises", Do you know how many parts are moving...

Make sure the tabs are started in the groove they're intended to and use force----a LOT of force

A tiny dab of GOOP on the back side. It'll NEVER come out.

Use teflon tape very cautiously. Gas will break it down and flow into the carb causing a real nightmare. NEVER have it anywhere near the open end.

A tachometer needs only 3 wires to operate, pos +, neg -, and a pulse wire, negative terminal of coil.

Disconnect the timing light and put it back in the drawer. Then adjust timing to get your best idle. Final timing can be done when driving at full temp. While cruising at city speed give a quick stab of about half throttle. If it pings, back off the timing a couple deg. No more ping, perfect...

That's a nice dist cap, I like it. 😊

The bottom of the shaft has 6 flat sides, equally spaced, So spinning the shaft so the other end is the "point" would end in the same location. The rotor should point to the correct #1 spot on the cap. If not, move the shaft one gear tooth in the correct direction. (Or rotate the dist that far...

You probably will be until you get the bugs worked out. :ROFLMAO:

It wasn't a "collapse", it was a orchestrated destruction.

Don't try to re-thread. You'll notice that the outer diameter of the threaded portion is slightly larger diameter than the remainder of the shank. You'll end up with crappy threads. Carefully measure and cut off the hook(s) and re-bend. Heat will become your best friend for this. You don't want...

It sticks out worse than a sore thumb. And the Doc will never let you live it down.

Judging by the dimension you gave, I would say that aligning the disc to the pilot bearing without the bell did not align the bearing retainer to the bell opening. You may have noticed that without the bell you can move the trans up 'n' down quite a bit.

Before you go any further, paint the core support black with stone guard paint. It's what I've found to be nearest to the slop that they used when new.

Being that Rusty's engine has been previously run, and well seasoned, I wouldn't do any more than crank it with the coil wire off until the oil gauge shows pressure.

"Detailer" & "Inspection" I think are the same things by different names. I've been using both for many years. I don't wash my cars. Water & detergent do not touch my cars. And the paint on my convert is over 30 yrs old. It's fantastic stuff. Removes road dirt, dust, bird shit and any other...