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Many years ago I was told by a very smart man who taught auto mech. at a tech school for over 30 yrs. When accellorating compression pushes oil off of the rings. As RPM's drop it draws oil to the rings. The purpose is to 'bathe'n'dry' the rings to enhance wear to fit & cool and temper them...

I've found it to be a very good substitute. About the same consistonsy and almost as sticky.

There should be a tensioner adjustment in-line of the cable routing. Nothing more than a threaded rod & adjustment nut.

I had the Cragar SS's on my convert sandblasted and rattle-canned flat black about 10-12 yrs ago. Paints still sticking.

(y) Thank you sir.

15 deg. BTDC, 15# at 800 rpm, and even the idle screws are in the ballpark at 1-1/2 turns. You've got yourself a slightly rumpity cam. At least it's not radical. Too many with the "bigger is better" mindset put in cams that don't idle under 1300 rpm.

No green?? Here's the OEM formula for QQ1....

Power and efficiency are part of the same equation. When you increase one the other goes along with it, unless you go hog-wild after-market. :rolleyes:

Like this color blue.... 🤔

Sounds a lot like the color of Coronets.

Blue, black or white?

To me there's way too many useful parts to scrap it. I may have what's needed to get working good. I don't have an immediate use for it, but may some day.

I love those carbs. Between my 4 cars I'm running 6 of them, plus a couple of parts carbs. To me they are like girl friends were in my earlier years, never too many to have. 😊

'64 Plymouth, had one myself in my younger days. Spent a lot of money buying & doing things that I shouldn't have. :cautious: Live & learn, as they say.

What I would surmise about the fuel leak: 1) worn secondary throttle shaft bore, 2) Float not sealing, (for who knows why) causing flooding to secondary bores and puddling on the baffles and seeping out the shaft bores. I would say that the carb has multiple issues and needs replacing.

If the fuel pressure on an Edelbrock/Carter carb exceeds 6 pounds the pressure will overcome the floats and cause rich mixture/leakage or flooding.

Lots of implement dealers have large belt supplies.

Remove moldings, wire brush on a drill, rust inhibitor of your choice, thin layer of bondo, then finish with rattle-can of your flavor.

Engines tilt down towards the rear. But you'll notice the the carb flange of the intake is angled to compensate for that tilt.

Put a board between the pipe & floorboard at a high point near the lowest point. Then jack the low point up until it stays where you want it to be. It will take a lot of pressure, but the pipe will give & bend.