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Being the child of a depression era parents, like yourself, we grew up learning how to be frugal. And being from the midwest and being from a family raised by sharecroppers, we had to learn to make do with little of nothing. To me that speedo cable fix is a no-brainer. When Ihave something break...

If you've never used that Extreme Glue before, you'll be impressed by what it can do.

Save your searching for other things. There may just be a simpler & easier fix. The connection for the speedo head is broken with a chunk missing, which allowed the cable end to not fully engage. What you need to do is find an epoxy that will bond the white plastic connector to the cable...

First test I would do, disconnect from trans. Clamp cable end into electric drill. You'll need someone to either watch the speedo or engage the drill. Look for needle movement. If yes, gear in trans either bad or not engaging. If no movement cable or head is bad. Hope for cable bad.

Some regulators are what's called "bypass" type. Not knowing exactly what yours is, it may be a bypass designed to bleed off pressure after shut down. As long as it maintains a steady pressure while running, I wouldn't be concerned. But I would check for pressure variance between low idle and...

I wouldn't be to concerned about pressure readings. The main things are that it doesn't overpower the floats and cause richness and doesn;t starve for fuel under hard throttle.

That 3rd pic looks like a decent location, and the gauge can be seen. And pressure-wise, you've got it about perfect, looks about 4.3psi. Another possible hurdle eliminated. Only other issues I can think of that could cause rich & rough idle would be vacuum leak or cam profile.

There's a couple of possibilities. Remove the outlet hose fitting and see if you can hard-line it near the carb inlet. That would keep it rigid enough. Or maybe modify the bracket to utilize an intake manifold bolt. Personally I would prefer the hard-line route.

The NapaGold, made by Wix vapor Separator/Filter is only $6.40 and is engineered to lower fuel pressure. NapaGold 3054 Fuel Filter by WIX (33054)

INRE Edelbrock/Carter carb fuel pressure; I love these carbs because they are so easy to set up. But the no. 1 thing that they don't like is high fuel pressure. Rusty, you say that you have a stock fuel pump. Great, if you still ran the carb that the factory installed on it. The Edelbrock carb...

INRE Edelbrock/Carter carb fuel pressure; I love these carbs because they are so easy to set up. But the no. 1 thing that they don't like is high fuel pressure. Rusty, you say that you have a stock fuel pump. Great, if you still ran the carb that the factory installed on it. The Edelbrock carb...

It's pretty hard to compare rate prices amongst ourselves. Because, for one, each car is different in its' own ways. But moreso the area that you live in, based on community size, general traffic, accidents and theft rates.The best you can do is compare price quotes from providers in your area.

Nice looking car, except for the miss-match of paint on the left quarter.

I've done this a few times over the past. Every diaphram pressure plate has either 18 or 21 fingers. So you weld about an inch bead in 3 equal places, centered between 2 of those fingers. The last one I did was on my R/T convert about 23 yrs. It had NO slip, what-so-ever. I could chirp the tires...

Look at that, someone makes a socket for Holley power valves. 🤔 And all these years I've been using a crecent wrench. :eek:

When you've got it you always find a use for it. ;)

The Doc said: "In the larger version of this picture, the flexible screwdriver doodads look like carb adjustment tools for non-automotive applications (motorcycle, small engine, etc.)." The flexiblee "allen" tipped ones were for adjusting the points on the old GM distributors. The procedure was...

I have to shake my head and look at the ceiling when someone over-complicates something. :rolleyes:

Years back I had a Dodge Aries with a Mitsu 2.6. Three valve cylinders with a dual mixture 3 bbl carb. That carb used what they called a "wax melt down" choke system. It lowered the idle as the choke opened. Ingenious system, when it worked right.

Negative coil is underhood only. Squeeze your wire through the rubber grommet next to the speedo cable.