Search results

There's always Andy Granatellis old trick, a can of good old STP. Many times back in the 60's & 70's that was the quick & simple cure for ticking lifter & flickering oil lights. Today's engines are machined with tolerances requiring oil of around 5w-20w. These older engines that have not been...

Any reading between 20 - 60 throughout RPM range at full temp is very acceptable. You worry too much about details. 😊 One belief is 10# per 1000 rpm is minimum. You're well above that, so I'd say that you have a very solid motor.

You'll appreciate knowing the true pressure after it's installed. I have pressure gauges in all of my cars. There's a reason they call them "idiot" lights.

That plug looks perfect. (y)

Don't be too concerned with the markings for the choke. They are mostly as a suggestion. Try to keep it somewhat on the lean side, but not to where it may cause a stumble or pop back thru the carb. You want it to respond quickly with zero hesitation

Neither do I.

Whether or not 1/2 lb will cause chaos is kinda moot. Can you attest to 100% accuracy of the gauge? In my opinion anything between 4-5 lbs would be adequate for any driving style. I'm running a vapor separator/filter on 3 of my cars, all with Carter carbs. 2 with electric fuel pumps and one with...

With the "vapor separator" (filter) all that's needed is to plumb the return line anywhere prior to the fuel pump. Because you car did not originally come with an Eddy/carter style 4bbl you need to regulate fuel pressure for it. When I swapped the 2bbl on my 318 for 2x4's, (Carters), I added...

With an Eddy carb your idle fuel pressure should be no more than 6 psi at idle. The 2nd pic of the plug is a major improvemnt over the 1st. But still slightly darker than ideal. It seems that you are getting closer.

For the fuel pressure check, your filter. Low pressure can also cause your idle issues. The idle circuit needs its' ideal fuel level. Low pressure can cause that to fluctuate.

Once the word is out that you can do something, they will find you. ;)

It's a lot easier to do a restore today than it was 30+ yrs ago without interweb and very little reproduction parts. But, it's a lot more costly today. Although, with mine I was concerned with OEM part numbers, not just fitment. Many times I walked away from a nice part with the wrong number...

Restoring these things for a profit is not a smart venture. The best reason is to have it to enjoy, and occasionaly look at it and tell yourself, "I did that". The longer you keep it the higher the value goes.

I spent $18k to restore my 'vert back in '93, so I suppose we're right on par. In todays $$ that would be $39,500. You may not think it, but I think that you've done quite well.

Yup, it needs some decals to contrast all that gray.

Make sure to paint the emblems in the grill to match original; https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QuEmR0dDmVo/VDElqFcNyCI/AAAAAAAAn90/G_AV7kEzAos/s1600/1968-Dodge-Charger-RT-440-front.JPG

Feels good to fix something without spending gobs of money, doesn't it? I think that eventually you'll many uses for that glue. It's the best that I've found for most any material.

You've got the right idea. That Extreme Glue sticks to everything. If any of it seeps through you might even glue your punch in. :ROFLMAO:

A too large portion of todays population have become members of the "throw-away" generation. As soon as something breaks or is "outdated" they replace because "newer is supposed to be better". But usually it's not, As we witness way too often today.

Being the child of a depression era parents, like yourself, we grew up learning how to be frugal. And being from the midwest and being from a family raised by sharecroppers, we had to learn to make do with little of nothing. To me that speedo cable fix is a no-brainer. When Ihave something break...