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It's a reamer, a more-precise tool for sizing holes in metal. Sometimes a drill bit just ain't precise enough. Yeah, take it easy. I know all about back issues of late. These boxes will get heavy fast so check often. USPS Priority Flat-Rate might be your best option, since weight isn't a...

When the Advance store opened here the corporate rule was when a customer called, you told them "We have it" without fail, expanding further to "in our warehouse" only upon the customer asking to have it set aside for them or saying they were on their way. If the DM happened to be in the store...

Those Powergrip clamps are awesome, but can get expensive fast since the only way to remove 'em is to destroy them. I've got some of those on the Valiant back by the fuel tank. Bastards! I think it might be, based on the fact that the OE ThermoQuad intakes are pretty danged high rise (in '71...

I definitely want the pliers, but yeah--keep those brake pliers. Those things are truly miracle workers when you need 'em (I have a set). I also don't need that little spanner directly above the brake pliers, because I don't know what it fits but I know I ain't got it! 😆 I'll take all the...

If nobody else wants them, here's an idea of what I can use. I can't bear to let tools get tossed. Everything in this photo with a hinge, meaning all the pliers and snips. I could also make use of the tubing bender and the spanner tool (the caliper/compass-lookin' dude with the pins on the...

I'm pretty sure every vintage upper/lower hose available at this point was originally a truck version, which explains the excessive length and need to cut. I've never even seen them before today; I had to do a search. I guess they'd be great for a roadside repair, in race pits, or engines...

If the bead is thicker than the cork gasket, you're fine. 1/4" is more than sufficient. Yeah, the hoses have all been cut to fit for decades now. It makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint, since the radiator fittings' locations are relatively close across body styles--even trucks. The...

I've been waiting for anyone else that might be interested to chime in about this. Lord knows you've sent me a ton of stuff already and have said there's still more not yet sent. If nobody else says anything, I'd take a lot of that stuff off your hands.

That's not information I'd use. That can be a lot of turning with no oil pressure. I'd use a priming shaft just long enough to hear the drill's pitch drop. At that point the pump is primed. I'd prefer that the engine start ASAP and the oil pump do the rest. I use break-in lube on virtually...

Remember, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank. If you're sure you're in the right place, you probably need to rotate the engine another full revolution. The oil feeds for the heads are part of the block and the heads themselves. The feed to the shafts comes through the rocker-shaft...

I see a ton of stuff I can use in some of those pictures. We'll see if anyone else chimes in first, though.

The two are mutually exclusive, in my experience. Sure, they may be quiet for the first couple of thousand miles, but every straight-through muffler I've heard sounds like a glasspack in pretty short order: loud, resonant, and blatty. It's a personal preference, of course, but definitely not...

Glad to hear... I was literally just posting wondering why he'd junk a perfectly-good top box like that.

The pressure's on, Robert.

...and here I just blamed it on me being sh!tty at welding. 😐

Definitely no bueno. Glad you caught it now.

This a bit murky, kind of like the warning that I believe was on a curling iron: "Do not use for the other use."

At the shop where the exhaust was originally installed, they still talk about that time the E-clip flew off the car Dave was fixing that's never been found. We know now that it flew into the exhaust system Mike was installing in the bay next to Dave.

My '77 Cordoba went in the back of a V6 K1500.

Methinks if you removed the hanger at the muffler you'd have much better access for welding across the top. If you've got 2-3 good short welds beforehand, it's not going to move when you drop it. I need to take half of mine back out. We forgot to weld the parking-brake cable bracket to the...