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It's not easy to butt weld patches into heavily-stressed stamped panels, like what you're doing. Obviously, solid welds are better, but you wouldn't be the first guy to call it "good enough" and fill any small pinholes... and there really isn't anything wrong with doing it, as long as the...

The Lexan might get you close, but it might fool you as well. The depth of multiple clear coats is achieved by the bonding process between each coat. That's hard to duplicate with removable film.

How much flake can you safely add to clear? As long as you can get it out of the spray gun, you're good. I used to do some Cascar cars, and one of them was done in Blue and white with PPG Prismatic multi-colour flake on top. Sharpest car at any race. Fiddling around one day, I flamed a toilet...

Yup, the oil-canning is secondary damage resulting from the wrinkled section. I'll warn you: fixing this properly will be one of the toughest jobs on the car.

The steel is stretched, that's why the oil-canning. There are basically only three ways to deal with stretched steel: 1) Straighten and shrink the wrinkled/ damaged area to pull the over-load of stress out of the steel. That's the better way, most times, but it does involve a fair bit of...

Is that the flat of the roof? Done with lead on the flat? Oh boy...

Most times, the"popping", or oil-canning, is from stretched metal. That's relatively easy to deal with. The ripples usually mean someone has taken a hammer to it, and this is almost never easy to get right. Drilling spot welds??? Not very often for this cowboy. That's why they make grinders...

Ripples from previous repairs... :( That makes everything much harder. It makes every damaged area another place to change repair tactics, given the previous efforts and not knowing how they were done. Ever give any thought to a new roof skin? They're aren't difficult.

Unless the roof has sharp dents, neither will likely be needed. Roof panels are not as difficult as most folks imagine...

When you get to the roof, I can walk you through it...

It just means that whatever product they sold you can be used as both a primer (4:1 mix), and a sealer (4:1+reduction). Sealers are always meant to be wet-on-wet (WOW), but still require sanding or abrading if left longer than the recommendation on the tech sheet. Same with epoxy, though some...

If you're using a catalyized product, and intended paint time is past the "open" window for that product, you WILL need to sand before paint. A red Scotchbrite will do. More reduced will only thin down the film build, meaning the product is intended to have a certain millage before top coating...

"chucklefucks"... never heard that one before. Consider that one stolen. ;)

I see lots of folks using masking tape to get a good body contour... I use a pass or two of flat black spray bomb. Faster and easier for me. :)

So THAT'S where my automatic center punch went... ;) Nice work, as always. I had a big bag of Klecos and the tool left over from the shop. We used them a fair bit, they were great for laying out the colour schemes on the stock cars when we didn't have a chassis to mount them on. Loaned them to...

Filler dust, primer and paint will gum them up. They were never painted from the factory. They cheapen the look when painted.

Get that latch assembly out of there!

Yup, that's whyt doesn't really apply to you. :)

Sorry to take so long... been battling a sinus infection that's had me on my ass. Here's what I came up with as far as three stage formulas that pop: My favourite: I've used this on several different cars and trucks, with variations on base colour, tint formula and coats applied. It's an easy...

Fabracobbling... the more I see of your work, the less that word applies to anything you do.