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If the pump is empty, it'll usually make noise. There was probably enough in the bottom of the reservoir to at least lubricate it. Gentle reminder to yourself and others reading along: Mopar power steering systems use Dex/Merc or ATF+4 transmission fluid, not power steering fluid. My process...

Did you forget to switch the ignition to run? That's the kind of error I'd make. The first thing I'd check is the header bolts. The next thing I'd check is lifter preload. I can't say I've ever heard a PS component click or tick, including driving a parts car 60+ miles with cut hoses. If...

Heh. It's just a thread about destroying a car. Pertinence isn't of the utmost importance. 😄

They definitely don't show an orange wire at either position, at least in the connector chart. I didn't check the wire diagram directly, but the black/white tracer is shown at the hazard flasher. Also, just by looking, it doesn't appear that the wires in the photo would extend to the far side...

There are two separate flashers. The turn-signal unit was originally on the passenger's side of the ashtray (same connector, two wires: 1 red, 1 black if memory serves) and the hazard flasher to the left of the pedal bracket. If memory serves, the wires for the turn-signal flasher are pretty...

The flasher shown in my picture is the one for the turn signals. That's the factory location per the service manual. The hazard (4-way) flasher was originally mounted to the left side of the brake-pedal bracket. It's a right-angle 2-terminal connector with three wires: One terminal has an...

Speaking of body work, this is my absolute favorite part of this car. It represents the treatment this car got late in life by Flying Jerry and potentially those after him. I found it in the trunk, and as far as I can tell at one point it was the lower driver's quarter panel behind the wheel...

There's more involved to this nonsense than one expects when beginning such a task. For no specific reason, I decided to tackle the dash first. I didn't have to remove everything I did to get it out, but some of the stuff is trashed anyhow so there's no use in hanging onto it. I stripped the...

And yet not as bad as Kevin's '68 Charger which is well on its way to being restored. Of course, that's his actual first car, so emotions play heavily into the amount of effort he's willing to expend. Other than yours and this one, the only other E7 E-body I recall is one that was a '74...

My friend Marty had it all figured out when we were sophomores. For the moment, we'll ignore the fact that he apparently hit puberty at, I dunno, age nine and could grow a Mario Bros. moustache by the 8th grade. Marty discovered the key is volume: "The first thing you do is ask for a dolly."...

I made some progress yesterday, including removing the fender splash shields, the doors and their lower hinges, and the hood hinges. I got the heater box the rest of the way out which was as simple as removing the cables, and cut the sealant so I could remove the front and rear reveal moulding...

About the closest you get is T5 Bronze Fire in '69, and in '68 there's Turbine Bronze (code M). Neither of those colors has the strong red content of K5, though.

Yeah, that stirs up some feels. I've had a weak spot for the '70 GTX since I was a kid and did the Monogram 1/24 kit, which I did in red with a white stripe. Absolutely loved everything about the design (and I've a similar love for the '69 Super Bee for the same reason). Many moons later, I...

In somewhat defense of such a foolish statement, it's sort-of a plausible scenario. However, it's only possible on a 4-pin ballast if and only if the alignment pins have been broken off the connectors. If the pins are in place it can only connect correctly regardless of which end the...

It really doesn't. If you look at the factory setup, it's essentially just a jumper wire. I always wired for the 5-pin myself, because the 5-pin arrangement will run just fine on a 4-pin module. The opposite is not true. I don't understand this. The battery has more than enough reserve...

If I had to guess, I'd say you've got a bad ECU. That's not surprising, since orange-box quality went to hell a couple of decades ago and never seemed to recover. I've always assumed that Chrysler changed vendors or their supplier got a bad run of parts, but it never got corrected. I know...

Something's definitely wonky there. If you've got 11-12V at the ballast output but only 7 at the coil's (+) terminal, then that wire is suspect, but I wonder about the wiring itself since it's obviously not original--only a genuine 340 car could've had it, which is fairly uncommon, and it...

It's very hard to tell from there, and the fork pushrod isn't a perfect fit on the countershaft either. You really have to measure the travel at the fork itself. 5/32" ain't much.

Is this on the ballast's output or right at the coil itself?

Try unplugging the ECU and see what your readings are at the coil.