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DO NOT attempt to connect anything but an unpowered microphone to that Amphenol connector. Microphone and line-level inputs are very different things. That is an amplified input, so connecting something at line level (1/8" or RCA) will be extremely loud and horribly distorted for the short...

Kooky. Every parts store around here carries a couple of each size from 2" to 2-1/2". OK, I thought you ordered them online. I've never attempted to order from them, I've only heard of others doing so with good results in terms of the pushrods. Can't say I've seen anything else about dealing...

Downspouts and turndowns, mostly the latter, are what I most often hear them called. "Tips" sorta indicate chrome extensions, at least to me. I have a hard time believing they didn't have those on hand, unless you were having 'em shipped or specifically wanted the AP parts. The Walker number...

That cart would've easily been $50-$75 at our local ReStore. The place is insanely overpriced on literally everything they have, despite getting the shit for free. I've left Home Depot, gone to the ReStore and found the latter actually wanted more for a used interior doors than Home Depot's...

Didn't know it was stuck. If it says "Lifetime Warranty" on the box, then it's lifetime warranty. You bought it under that pretense, and you can't be expected to open the box in the store (depending on the item, that might get a fella arrested) and look for disclaimers to what's on the box...

If I recall, @Yokmoni's car has a standard hood. I don't know if that intake/carb setup would fit an Air Grabber. Fresh air is nice (if overrated) but it severely limits your intake/carb choices. Damn. I was hoping for a report back on the durability of those ultra-high-compression...

Dorman and AGS sell a complete replacement kit, though it ain't cheap. It's designed to circumvent all the disassembly by including flex lines and junctions in certain spots. Our shop has done a few of these, and the high cost of the line kit is more than offset in saved labor. The lines...

It only has to go in about an inch, on a bit of a downward angle. You could also put a piece of scrap hose on the end of it. I sell the Performance Tool W54220, which is a metal one that holds 16oz. It's about $14 out the door for Joe Off the Street. It's handier than you might think...

They charge for shipping anyway. Again, ax me how I know. They f__ked me eight ways from Sunday on my first, only, and last transaction with them. I'll call Manton next time. A cheap suction gun runs about $10. Pull the gear oil out, add your friction modifier, and refill from the same gun...

I have a set of the Comp pushrods new in the package. They're too long--the 7.389" is not the overall length to the edge of the cup, it's the length from the bottom of the cup to the tip of the ball. That's how they and nearly everyone else measure cup/ball pushrods, and yes--I checked them...

So, the selling dealer has driven almost 85% of the miles showing on the odometer? :unsure: Apparently even the guy that owned/had it built didn't much like it. As is the case with most of these, a complete lack of craftsmanship/pride in work makes me wonder what I can't see. Radio face...

Unless you're literally against the ends of the threads--meaning you hit a dead stop while turning--I don't think the longer pushrods are going to change anything. Preload's preload; the lifter doesn't care how the adjuster looks. I'd continue to fiddle with that first before I worried too...

Ordinarily a shaker siphon would be a godsend in this situation, but they intentionally make it too large to fit down an unleaded filler neck. Of course, you could pull the filler neck again. I keep an old electric fuel pump around for stuff like this, but I think the shaker siphon's actually...

I wouldn't mess with that yet. I think it's probably too much vacuum too soon. This next won't really apply until you've got the timing and base idle-mixture setting, but it's probably going to come in handy.... I'm not sure I understand this. Replaceable bleeds are usually small threaded...

I still have that cam on the shelf. Just for fun, I ran a simulation on it with a 9.69:1 CR 360 with Speedmaster heads, which should be close to what you've got in terms of compression ratio and flow. It doesn't love a lot of timing, at least if the program's to be believed. It really doesn't...

Also, I don't recall recommending a cam per se, as that's something I always suggest leaving to a cam grinder. However, I do remember running several candidates you had in mind and finding one that seemed the best of the bunch in terms of dynamic CR and overall curves. I don't believe I saved...

Well, I'd written quite the long response here, but the board ate it. It makes me sad, as I'd been working on it for over an hour and had dragged out the FSMs, etc. to try and give you some ideas. Since I can never seem to duplicate my own thought process, I'll just suggest ballpark some shit...

I had the bed off the Dakota several times and used ratchet straps hooked diagonally across the stake pockets, with the engine crane hooked at the intersection. It's a smaller box, but there was quite a bit of stuff in it including the spare, and the tailgate was still in place. The only real...

MP was selling both, except one was "mild" and one was "aggressive". When I was eBaying for a living, I put a number of 'em together with the "aggressive" clutches and always made note that they would be very harsh in daily-driver type use and were better suited to drag strips. However, I...

No, they were definitely Weld wheels. They still had the factory center caps on 'em.