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That 3rd pic looks like a decent location, and the gauge can be seen. And pressure-wise, you've got it about perfect, looks about 4.3psi. Another possible hurdle eliminated. Only other issues I can think of that could cause rich & rough idle would be vacuum leak or cam profile.

There's a couple of possibilities. Remove the outlet hose fitting and see if you can hard-line it near the carb inlet. That would keep it rigid enough. Or maybe modify the bracket to utilize an intake manifold bolt. Personally I would prefer the hard-line route.

The NapaGold, made by Wix vapor Separator/Filter is only $6.40 and is engineered to lower fuel pressure. NapaGold 3054 Fuel Filter by WIX (33054)

INRE Edelbrock/Carter carb fuel pressure; I love these carbs because they are so easy to set up. But the no. 1 thing that they don't like is high fuel pressure. Rusty, you say that you have a stock fuel pump. Great, if you still ran the carb that the factory installed on it. The Edelbrock carb...

INRE Edelbrock/Carter carb fuel pressure; I love these carbs because they are so easy to set up. But the no. 1 thing that they don't like is high fuel pressure. Rusty, you say that you have a stock fuel pump. Great, if you still ran the carb that the factory installed on it. The Edelbrock carb...

It's pretty hard to compare rate prices amongst ourselves. Because, for one, each car is different in its' own ways. But moreso the area that you live in, based on community size, general traffic, accidents and theft rates.The best you can do is compare price quotes from providers in your area.

Nice looking car, except for the miss-match of paint on the left quarter.

I've done this a few times over the past. Every diaphram pressure plate has either 18 or 21 fingers. So you weld about an inch bead in 3 equal places, centered between 2 of those fingers. The last one I did was on my R/T convert about 23 yrs. It had NO slip, what-so-ever. I could chirp the tires...

Look at that, someone makes a socket for Holley power valves. 🤔 And all these years I've been using a crecent wrench. :eek:

When you've got it you always find a use for it. ;)

The Doc said: "In the larger version of this picture, the flexible screwdriver doodads look like carb adjustment tools for non-automotive applications (motorcycle, small engine, etc.)." The flexiblee "allen" tipped ones were for adjusting the points on the old GM distributors. The procedure was...

I have to shake my head and look at the ceiling when someone over-complicates something. :rolleyes:

Years back I had a Dodge Aries with a Mitsu 2.6. Three valve cylinders with a dual mixture 3 bbl carb. That carb used what they called a "wax melt down" choke system. It lowered the idle as the choke opened. Ingenious system, when it worked right.

Negative coil is underhood only. Squeeze your wire through the rubber grommet next to the speedo cable.

Many years ago I was told by a very smart man who taught auto mech. at a tech school for over 30 yrs. When accellorating compression pushes oil off of the rings. As RPM's drop it draws oil to the rings. The purpose is to 'bathe'n'dry' the rings to enhance wear to fit & cool and temper them...

I've found it to be a very good substitute. About the same consistonsy and almost as sticky.

There should be a tensioner adjustment in-line of the cable routing. Nothing more than a threaded rod & adjustment nut.

I had the Cragar SS's on my convert sandblasted and rattle-canned flat black about 10-12 yrs ago. Paints still sticking.

(y) Thank you sir.

15 deg. BTDC, 15# at 800 rpm, and even the idle screws are in the ballpark at 1-1/2 turns. You've got yourself a slightly rumpity cam. At least it's not radical. Too many with the "bigger is better" mindset put in cams that don't idle under 1300 rpm.