Whether or not 1/2 lb will cause chaos is kinda moot. Can you attest to 100% accuracy of the gauge? In my opinion anything between 4-5 lbs would be adequate for any driving style. I'm running a vapor separator/filter on 3 of my cars, all with Carter carbs. 2 with electric fuel pumps and one with...
With the "vapor separator" (filter) all that's needed is to plumb the return line anywhere prior to the fuel pump. Because you car did not originally come with an Eddy/carter style 4bbl you need to regulate fuel pressure for it.
When I swapped the 2bbl on my 318 for 2x4's, (Carters), I added...
With an Eddy carb your idle fuel pressure should be no more than 6 psi at idle. The 2nd pic of the plug is a major improvemnt over the 1st. But still slightly darker than ideal. It seems that you are getting closer.
For the fuel pressure check, your filter. Low pressure can also cause your idle issues. The idle circuit needs its' ideal fuel level. Low pressure can cause that to fluctuate.
It's a lot easier to do a restore today than it was 30+ yrs ago without interweb and very little reproduction parts. But, it's a lot more costly today. Although, with mine I was concerned with OEM part numbers, not just fitment. Many times I walked away from a nice part with the wrong number...
Restoring these things for a profit is not a smart venture. The best reason is to have it to enjoy, and occasionaly look at it and tell yourself, "I did that". The longer you keep it the higher the value goes.
I spent $18k to restore my 'vert back in '93, so I suppose we're right on par. In todays $$ that would be $39,500. You may not think it, but I think that you've done quite well.
Make sure to paint the emblems in the grill to match original;
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QuEmR0dDmVo/VDElqFcNyCI/AAAAAAAAn90/G_AV7kEzAos/s1600/1968-Dodge-Charger-RT-440-front.JPG
Feels good to fix something without spending gobs of money, doesn't it? I think that eventually you'll many uses for that glue. It's the best that I've found for most any material.
A too large portion of todays population have become members of the "throw-away" generation. As soon as something breaks or is "outdated" they replace because "newer is supposed to be better". But usually it's not, As we witness way too often today.
Being the child of a depression era parents, like yourself, we grew up learning how to be frugal. And being from the midwest and being from a family raised by sharecroppers, we had to learn to make do with little of nothing. To me that speedo cable fix is a no-brainer. When Ihave something break...
Save your searching for other things. There may just be a simpler & easier fix. The connection for the speedo head is broken with a chunk missing, which allowed the cable end to not fully engage. What you need to do is find an epoxy that will bond the white plastic connector to the cable...
First test I would do, disconnect from trans. Clamp cable end into electric drill. You'll need someone to either watch the speedo or engage the drill. Look for needle movement. If yes, gear in trans either bad or not engaging. If no movement cable or head is bad. Hope for cable bad.
Some regulators are what's called "bypass" type. Not knowing exactly what yours is, it may be a bypass designed to bleed off pressure after shut down. As long as it maintains a steady pressure while running, I wouldn't be concerned. But I would check for pressure variance between low idle and...
I wouldn't be to concerned about pressure readings. The main things are that it doesn't overpower the floats and cause richness and doesn;t starve for fuel under hard throttle.
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