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Thread: '75 W300 repair/mod project - Ol' Blue

  1. #286
    gomopar440's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, it seems like being a "parts guy" probably isn't listed in the job requirements to get hired on at the two local parts shops.

    I saved a link somewhere to a how-to article on how to make one of those dust collectors using a 5 gal pail, a shop vac and some hose. Just haven't had the time (or motivation) to make one yet. It will get built, but most likely sometime over the winter, when it's too cold to work on anything outside.

    I've been pulled off the truck project to help with building a small barn for the last few days. As a result, I haven't been able to do anything to the truck since my last post.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

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    The words "build a cyclone" in my last post were a link.
    "If you can leave black marks from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."
    --Mark Donohue

  3. #288
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    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  4. #289
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    I went back and replaced the pics on the first half of this thread. I'll get the rest of them fixed later.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  5. #290
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    I went over the initial timing setup again and everything appears to be set where it's supposed to be. With the #1 piston at TDC the intake valve is about to come up, the distributor drive gear has the slot running front to back and the vacuum advance can is pointing to the driver side of the engine while the rotor is pointing directly at the terminal for plug #1. The plug wires have been verified to be in the correct firing order for CCW rotation, and both the two wire distributor plug and the coil wires are secured/connected properly.

    I spent quite a bit of time today testing out the ignition system to see if I could find any faulty parts or wiring. So far I've looked at the primary and secondary wiring sections of the harness, as well as the ECU, distributor pickup and ballast resistor. I still need to check the coil and I haven't been able to check it for spark with a wire pulled yet. I'll have to make up a remote start button so I can crank it from the engine bay.

    The only part that failed the testing specs in the FSM was the distributor pickup. I found that the pickup was tilted, so the bottom was closer to the reluctor (almost touching it) than it was at the top (.008-.010). I gave the plate holding the pickup a slight twist and was able to get the pickup to run parallel to the reluctor. I set the gap to .008 as per the FSM, however it still wouldn't start when I tried it after reseting the pickup gap.

    With the tests on the wiring and components reading within specs, the FSM recommended trying to swap out the ECU and/or the coil next. I had a used/spare ECU and ballast resistor that came with the truck in the glove box, so I swapped out the ECU first. I sanded the fender mounting points under the ECU and put a little dielectric grease on the bare metal to keep it from rusting and maintain conductivity. Tried to start it again, and still was getting nothing but the starter cranking it over. Since that didn't work, I installed the first ECU that was working previously back into the truck. I don't have a spare coil here to swap out, so next I tried the spare (used) ballast resistor. Same result as with the ECU, cranking but no starting.

    I need to get another coil to try out next, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to see what the FSM says to check next. For now I had to stop there since my battery voltage was getting pretty low due to all the cranking of the starter. My big battery charger stopped working a few months ago, so I'm having to use a tiny HF slow trickle charger to get by.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  6. #291
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    I went over the initial timing setup again and everything appears to be set where it's supposed to be. With the #1 piston at TDC the intake valve is about to come up, the distributor drive gear has the slot running front to back and the vacuum advance can is pointing to the driver side of the engine while the rotor is pointing directly at the terminal for plug #1. The plug wires have been verified to be in the correct firing order for CCW rotation, and both the two wire distributor plug and the coil wires are secured/connected properly.

    I spent quite a bit of time today testing out the ignition system to see if I could find any faulty parts or wiring. So far I've looked at the primary and secondary wiring sections of the harness, as well as the ECU, distributor pickup and ballast resistor. I still need to check the coil and I haven't been able to check it for spark with a wire pulled yet. I'll have to make up a remote start button so I can crank it from the engine bay.

    The only part that failed the testing specs in the FSM was the distributor pickup. I found that the pickup was tilted, so the bottom was closer to the reluctor (almost touching it) than it was at the top (.008-.010). I gave the plate holding the pickup a slight twist and was able to get the pickup to run parallel to the reluctor. I set the gap to .008 as per the FSM, however it still wouldn't start when I tried it after reseting the pickup gap.

    With the tests on the wiring and components reading within specs, the FSM recommended trying to swap out the ECU and/or the coil next. I had a used/spare ECU and ballast resistor that came with the truck in the glove box, so I swapped out the ECU first. I sanded the fender mounting points under the ECU and put a little dielectric grease on the bare metal to keep it from rusting and maintain conductivity. Tried to start it again, and still was getting nothing but the starter cranking it over. Since that didn't work, I installed the first ECU that was working previously back into the truck. I don't have a spare coil here to swap out, so next I tried the spare (used) ballast resistor. Same result as with the ECU, cranking but no starting.

    I need to get another coil to try out next, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to see what the FSM says to check next. For now I had to stop there since my battery voltage was getting pretty low due to all the cranking of the starter. My big battery charger stopped working a few months ago, so I'm having to use a tiny HF slow trickle charger to get by.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  7. #292
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    OK, cam & ignition timing are right on, next, if no spark at a plug move backwards, 12v to ballast resistor? resistor output, both sides? voltage to + coil lead? pickup sensors rarely go bad, but possible, (the technical name is Hall Effect Sensor) ECU's are notoriously evil. I've had bad ones out of the box. They rarely die while in use. They usually die like a light bulb, when you hit the switch.

    Remote start switch not needed for Mopars, jump a screwdriver between large terminal on starter relay to smaller terminal.
    "It's never too late for a happy childhood"
    -68 R/T

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    if you would like to test the system WITHOUT runing the starter. grab a spare dizzy, chuck it up in a drill, wrap a ground wire around it or bolt a ground wire to the vacume screw, ground out some plugs, fire up the drill and watch the plugs...this is the ONLY way i know to test the system as a whole

    bonus section

    you can spin the dizzy by hand and acomplish the same thing as it doesnt need to spin crazy fast, secondly you can just stuff a plug wire on the coil and eliminate the need for cap n rotor to "dumb down" the system and see if the issue is prior to the cap n rotor


    this whole method has always been my "goto" on electronic ignition rigs that are being fussy as you can quick test every bit by bit without actualy cranking on the engine..and since mopars...especialy trucks...LOVE to have the stupidest thing happen..the system works perfectly when NOT cranking



    Straight jacket short bus style different

    If its bolt a bolt on part, its NOT CUSTOM!

    thats not the tires squealing thats the pavement begging for mercy!

    Never argue with an idiot....they will drag you down to there level and beat you with there experience

  9. #294
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    A friend stopped by today, so I got him to turn the key while I checked for spark. There was a good spark when he was cranking it over, so I started looking elsewhere for the issue(s). I also tried advancing and retarding the distributor while he was cranking it and the most I got from it was a few coughs (backfires) through the carb. I reseated the carb and gaskets on the intake and torqued the four mounting nuts to Holly's recommended specs to make sure there weren't any vacuum leaks there. Next I checked the fuel bowl levels through the sight holes and reset the adjustable needles and seats. They were already close from the baseline setting I had them at, so there wasn't much of a change to either side of the carb. Fuel pressure is reading between 3-5 PSI on the gauge at the carb fuel line.

    So, I'm getting spark and I'm most likely getting compression (based on the sound of the coughs/backfires). I'm also getting fuel, but it's smelling way rich at the moment. The carb I have had a number of issues with it when I took it apart to rebuild it. There may be some internal problems I didn't see during the rebuild that popped up after everything was cleaned up. I'm going to see if my neighbor that races has a spare known good 750cc carb I can throw on to test it out. He's at the track this weekend, so I'll have to try to catch up with him on Monday.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  10. #295
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    I've discovered that the FSM now has two confirmed errors on a rather critical topic. The distributor rotation shown in the Engine section (CW vs CCW) and the initial rotor direction at TDC shown in the Electrical section. The way the FSM describes the way it functions, it would seem to be correct with the rotor pointing towards the front of the vehicle at TDC. As a result, I'm even more confused as to why it's almost firing now. I'm not going to argue with it though and I'll try dialing it in to where I can get it to run well enough to tune it.

    Yep, turning the dist shaft 180* got it closer to running, even though the FSM said that way wasn't correct. It's now trying to start and actually getting a continuous series of combustion pops out of the collectors. It's not close enough to get up to idle speed yet, but at least it's in the ballpark now. For now, the battery is on the slow charger again. I'll give it another shot once it's charged up.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  11. #296
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    Good news and bad news.

    First the good news. With the battery charged up a bit, I got my wife to hop in and crank the engine over so I could adjust the distributor until it would start. It only took a few seconds messing with it until it finally fired up and stayed running. The idle is way low at the moment, hovering around 450-500 RPM right now. I've never had a 440 that could idle that low before. After I adjusted the clutch rod to get the proper pedal freeplay, I took it once around the block to see how it ran on the default carb settings. Even with it just timed by ear, it's running a lot more like you would expect a 440 truck with 4.88 gears should run. Now it's running waaay better than it did when I first bought it (it was kinda sluggish before).

    Now the bad news. It looks like I have a rear main seal leak to deal with.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  12. #297
    68R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomopar440 View Post

    Now the bad news. It looks like I have a rear main seal leak to deal with.
    Rope or neoprene?

    I've always preferred the rope, but there is a trick to getting a good installation.
    "It's never too late for a happy childhood"
    -68 R/T

  13. #298
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    I think it's most likely going to be the side seals (molded silicone pieces), but won't know for sure till I drop the pan and check it out. The actual main seal itself is a two piece rubber type.
    "I, not events, have the power to make me happy or unhappy today. I can choose which it shall be. Yesterday is dead, tomorrow hasn't arrived yet. I have just one day, today, and I'm going to be happy in it."
    - Groucho Marx

    There's no sense in feeding the fire if you're gonna have to stand in it...
    - Me

  14. #299
    68R/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomopar440 View Post
    I think it's most likely going to be the side seals (molded silicone pieces), but won't know for sure till I drop the pan and check it out.
    That's why I prefer seals made of a fiberous material, they swell up when saturated with oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by gomopar440 View Post
    The actual main seal itself is a two piece rubber type.
    I've seen instances where they were installed backwards.
    "It's never too late for a happy childhood"
    -68 R/T

  15. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomopar440 View Post
    With the #1 piston at TDC the intake valve is about to come up...
    Right there, you should've known you were 180 out. At TDC firing, neither valve should be about to do anything.

    If you'd followed my suggestion, you'd have had it running without all that FSM f__kin' around you did to get nowhere. My method takes 5 minutes. The wires don't care which cap tower they occupy--they just need to be above the rotor when it's their cylinder's turn to fire. The position of the vacuum advance canister doesn't really matter either, as long as it's got clearance for making timing adjustments.

    When Hughes Engines installed Kev's rear main seal backward (among other major f__k-ups), it shot out of there like nobody's business--destroying the $800 dual-disc clutch they swore he'd need (because they sell 'em) for his stock-stroke, all-stock-iron-manifolded 440.
    "If you can leave black marks from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."
    --Mark Donohue

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